Chainsaw chains typically last for 5 to 6 years with moderate use. With proper care a chain can easily last much longer. To get the most out of your chainsaw chain, keep it professionally sharpened and oiled. Never cut dirty wood or dig your chain into the ground while cutting. In addition, ensure that your saw never runs out of bar oil.

What does “proper care” entail? I’ve made this extensive guide so that I can answer all the questions you might have about getting the most from your chainsaw chain. So, make sure you keep reading to find out more!

What causes a chainsaw chain to wear out

A variety of different factors will cause a chainsaw chain to wear out. Once it is worn out, cutting wood is nearly impossible and the chain could eventually break. Here are some of the more common causes that lead to chain damage:

• Lack of Lubricant. You will always want to make sure that your chainsaw is filled with bar oil. Without bar oil, it will overheat while you are using it. Make sure it has plenty of oil and that the oil port is clear of blockages.
• Improper Sharpening. Improper sharpening (or not sharpening at all) will wear out a chain much faster.
• Improper Use. Cutting dirty wood or letting your chain hit the ground, causes significant damage to the chain.

How do I know if my chainsaw chain is worn out

There are many different ways to tell if your chainsaw chain is worn out and needs to be replaced. Experienced chainsaw users can just innately tell when the chain needs to be replaced. However, factors that signal the need to get a new chain include:

• The chain comes off the bar easily due to worn out drive links.
• There is smoke coming from the wood you are cutting, suggesting overheating.
• Some teeth or rakers are missing.
• The chainsaw chain is chipped and the teeth are cut in a U rather than a V.
• A lot of rust builds up on the chain.
• You cannot cut through wood as well as you would have expected.
• The chainsaw has a shaky performance.
• Your chainsaw is cutting crooked.

A lot of people experience crooked cuts which is a common symptom of a malfunctioning chain. Find out if that is the reason by reading my post about crooked cuts and how to fix it.

How often do I need to sharpen a chainsaw chain

When it comes to sharpening your chainsaw chain, you are going to want to sharpen it just about every time you run out of gas. Doing this minimizes the chance of the chain ever getting too dull and causing damage to the chainsaw. If you don’t use your chainsaw often, then it is recommended that you at least inspect for rust about every 3 months.

Is it worth sharpening a chainsaw chain

Sharpening a chain is not always easy, so what are the best options for you? Sharpening it yourself or having it sharpened by a professional? Or how about just going to a hardware store and getting a new chain?

When it comes down to it, sharpening your own chain is the cheapest option but if you don’t have experience sharpening, you might do more harm than good. Getting it sharpened by a pro will typically cost anywhere from $10 to $20. And if you are getting a new chain, it is going to cost you more in the range of $15 to $35.

Clearly, you can see that just learning to sharpen your own blade is the cheapest option. Yet, if you are not careful, you can sharpen the chain incorrectly and end up replacing it anyway.

5 Tips to vastly extend the life of your chainsaw chain

1. Avoid cutting dirty wood or hitting the ground

Letting the blade hit the ground or cutting dirt covered wood will quickly dull and damage a chain. It only takes a little bit of dirt or gravel to do some major damage. If you do accidentally burry your bar into the ground, be sure to stop cutting. Turn off the saw and clean the chain with compressed air or a brush before starting up again.

If the wood you plan on cutting is particularly dirty, take the time to brush it off as much as possible. That extra effort goes a long ways in preserving the life of your chain.

2. Start with a quality chain

Half the battle of extending the life of your chain is won when you buy a quality chainsaw chain. Not all chains are created equal. Poor construction or inferior metals all contribute to lower than average life expectancies. A cheap chain from an off-brand might last a year or two if you are lucky. Some of the best brands to get are Oregon, Husqvarna, and Stihl.

3. Learn to sharpen a chain properly

Properly sharpening a chainsaw chain is actually more of an art than a science for most. But, even a novice chainsaw user can learn how to sharpen their chain quickly and easily with a little practice.

Before you ever attempt to sharpen your own chain, it’s critical to learn the parts of a chain and what each part does. Understanding how rakers and the cutting teeth work in conjunction with each other will help you see issues before they cause major problems.

On top of that, you need to have the right tools. These include appropriately sized files, clams and maybe even a sharpening guide that makes setting the file angle much easier. Overtime, sharpening chainsaw chains yourself will save you money.

The video below shows the easiest ways to learn how to sharpen your chainsaw’s chain in a variety of different ways so that you can quickly learn how to sharper your chain without having to worry about damaging it.

4. Keep your chain clean and oiled

Along with making sure that the chain is constantly sharpened, you are going to want to make sure you are cleaning and oiling the chain often. A dry chain leads to rust and overheating, while a dirty chain reduces cutting efficiency and increases the likelihood of dulling and overheating as well. Most of the time, chains stay well oiled if you use adequate amounts of bar oil. That involves adding bar oil at regular intervals while cutting and ensuring that the oil port isn’t clogged.

When it comes to keeping your chainsaw clean, give it a nice wipe down after every use. Doing this will help remove any bits and debris so that your chainsaw will continue to last and extend its lifespan.

To clean, take the chain off your saw and brush away debris with a small brush or toothbrush. Caked on pitch is a trickier thing to remove from a chain but you can use a water and lye solution and let it soak. Then, hose it off and scrub with a wire brush. Follow up with a rag wipe down. Once you have it cleaned to your liking, sharpen if needed and dip it in some bar oil to keep it from rusting.

A saw that sits around without use also needs some extra oil. A quick dip in bar oil on occasion will keep rust at bay.

5. Get it sharpened professionally if you don’t know how

If the idea of inspecting and sharpening your own chain is too daunting, utilize a professional. Chainsaw supply stores generally offer some sort of sharpening and chainsaw maintenance services. It’s fairly affordable and a much better alternative to doing nothing at all.

Professional sharpening can greatly extend the life of your chain but make sure you compare the cost of replacing a chain with the cost to have it sharpened. It’s possible that replacing is less of a hassle and only a little more expensive.

How to save your chainsaw chain

Hopefully, at this point you have a much better understanding of what it takes to extend the life of your chainsaw chain. To sum it up:

• Never let your chain rust or get used without adequate bar oil
• Avoid cutting dirty wood and never dig your saw into the ground
• Keep your chain sharpened right so it cuts efficiently without overheating or binding

Doing all of these simple things greatly improves the chance that your chainsaw chain will last an average of 6 to 7 years. But, it is entirely possible to have a high quality chain last even longer before you need a replacement.

The post How Long Do Chainsaw Chains Last (5 Tips To Extend Its Life) appeared first on Cut Stack Burn.

When I was shopping for a chainsaw, weight was an important factor and I am sure it is important to you too.  Looking for the quick answer?  Well, here it is.

In general, chainsaws with 16-18 inch bars average 8 to 12 pounds.  Gas powered saws tend to be heavier than electric or battery saws and weigh around 12 pounds.  Corded electric saws are the lightest option, weighing as little as 6 pounds. Battery powered chainsaws tip the scales at an average of 10 pounds, including the battery.

Looking for a little more substance to help narrow down your choices and compare chainsaws by weight?  I’ve got you covered.  I’ve researched and compiled a thorough list of 32 of the most popular chainsaws including gas, electric and battery powered saws.  Take a look to see how all the top chainsaws measure up by weight.

Factors that affect the weight of a chainsaw

Building a light weight chainsaw is a daunting task that most manufacturers have tackled quite admirably.  Yet, there is a limit to how much weight can be cut.  All the different parts of the saw add to the overall weight.  Things like the type of powerhead, length of the bar and chain, fuel and even bar oil all need to be factored in.  Let’s see how each affects the weight of chainsaws.

Power source

By far, the biggest influence on a chainsaw’s weight is the power source.  There are gas, electric and battery powered chainsaws.  Each require different materials and designs to function.  Gas chainsaws incorporate a large amount of metal in the motor and surrounding components, which makes them much heavier than either electric or battery saws.

Electric saws use a compact electric motor which still has heavy magnets and copper wiring but the majority of the saw is constructed of plastic.  These are super light saws.  Although, it’s easy to forget that the extension cord you plug into the saw does add some weight during use.

Battery saws are not often as light as you would expect.  The powerhead is relatively light but the battery accounts for the bulk of the extra weight.  Even though lithium batteries pack a lot of power in a small package, they still weigh several pounds.  Especially, batteries large enough to power a chainsaw.

Fuel and bar oil

It’s no surprise that gas chainsaws need fuel to operate but manufacturers seldom list chainsaw weights that include a full tank of gas and bar oil.  In fact, the weights listed on manufacturer websites are almost always the dry weight.  Sometimes they only list the weight of the powerhead.

Gas chainsaws hold anywhere from 8 to 44 ounces of fuel.  So, you can factor in another 0.5 to 2.5 pounds of fuel to the overall weight.  

All chainsaws use bar oil.  Reservoir capacities vary but often hold at least 8 ounces.  Larger saws hold up to 24 ounces which means you need to tack on another 0.5 to 1.5 pounds. 

Bar length

Many chainsaws offer various bar lengths with the same powerhead.  In that case, the only thing affecting weight is the additional material of a longer bar and chain.  These are metal components, so a 24 inch bar and accompanying chain has a fairly significant weight difference compared to an 18 inch bar.  You can expect large bars and chains to add at least 1-3 pounds of additional weight.

How much do gas powered chainsaws weigh

You can’t make a gas chainsaw entirely out of plastic so it’s no surprise they tend to be heavy.  After all, a 2-stroke motor requires strong metal components to handle the power of internal combustion.  

Just about every gas chainsaw you pick up is going to weigh over 10 pounds.  Smaller saws with 14-16 inch bars might weigh a little less than 10 pounds but saws with 18-24 inch bars are going to push 12-14 pounds.  And that’s without gas or bar oil.  You’ll need to factor in another 2-3 pounds for fuel and oil. 

If you’re concerned about the weight of gas powered chainsaws, then take a look at the list below to see how some of the most popular gas saws measure up by weight. All weights are listed as dry weight, without fuel or oil.  Some are also listed with powerhead weight only and exclude the weight of the bar and chain.  In those cases, add an additional 2-3 pounds to get the full weight.   

How much do electric chainsaws weigh

From an engineering standpoint, electric chainsaws are much less complex in design than gas chainsaws.  Therefore, there are fewer components which saves big on weight.  

Motors in electric chainsaws are made with magnets and coils of copper wire but that’s pretty much the only heavy part other than the bar and chain.  Everything else on an electric saw is made of light weight material.  That means most electric chainsaws weigh around 8 pounds.  Plus, there is no added weight from fuel.  However, there is still bar oil to account for.

Despite being so light, electric chainsaws are very powerful.  Check out the comparison below to see how much top selling electric chainsaws weigh.  

How much do battery powered chainsaws weigh

Battery powered chainsaws are exceedingly popular among do-it-yourself homeowners.  They are powerful, compact and ultra portable.  Like electric chainsaws, battery powered saws use a fairly simple electric motor but there is added weight from the battery.  

Even though lithium batteries are lightweight for their size, they are still quite dense.  Battery saws weigh around 8 pounds without the battery.  Once you add a lithium battery capable of cutting through a small stack of wood, you’re looking at an additional 2 to 3 pounds.  Overall, battery chainsaws weigh an average of 10-12 pounds.

The convenience might be worth the addition of a few pounds versus a corded electric chainsaw.  If you agree, then peruse this list of the 9 best battery powered chainsaws and how their weights compare.

What is the heaviest chainsaw

Some chainsaws are true behemoths.  While there are lots of big chainsaws out there, only a few get to claim the heavy weight title.  I’ve seen homemade chainsaws with a powerhead made from a car motor.  It took two big guys to lift it and weighed over 250 pounds. 

But let’s assume we are asking about the heaviest production model chainsaws.  In that case, Husqvarna and Stihl battle for the top spot.  

The Stihl MS 880 Magnum is a beast and is touted as the world’s most powerful production chainsaw ever.  With a maximum bar length of 56 inches and an 8.6 hp motor, it tips the scales at 22.3 pounds.  That’s without fuel or bar oil.  

Compare that to the Husqvarna 3120XP which fights for the top spot with Stihl in this power struggle.  With a 46 inch bar and a little less horsepower, this saw still weighs in at 22.9 pounds.

Both these gas chainsaws are exceptionally heavy and are in no way designed for the average homeowner.  Big saws like these are meant to be in the hands of highly skilled loggers that can handle the weight and power of saws needed for cutting big timber.

Are lighter weight chainsaws actually better

While chasing down the lightest weight saw seems like the best thing to do, it might not always be in your best interest.  Sure, a light weight saw is easier to handle and probably less tiring to use.  But that actually depends on the type of cutting you are doing.  

So is a light weight chainsaw better than heavier saws?  Well, here’s the thing.  It all comes down to the power versus weight ratio.  In other words, opting for the lightest chainsaw might mean you sacrifice power.  That ends up slowing down your cuts and increasing the amount of work needed to get the job done.  

It’s important to choose a saw that has an ideal power to weight ratio for your particular situation.  

For those cutting lots of firewood, a heavier gas chainsaw is better than a lightweight electric saw where the weight of the saw actually helps you push the chain down through a log.  Whereas, a light electric saw is ideal for above-the-head tree limbing where power is less critical than weight.

In the end, your choice of saws shouldn’t rely entirely on weight.  Certainly cutting down on weight is important but it’s not always the only factor to consider.

The post How Much Does A Chainsaw Weigh: 32 Popular Saws Compared appeared first on Cut Stack Burn.

As usual, I asked a few questions and eventually learned something immensely useful about flipping your chainsaw bar upside down.  And guess what?  My first thought was to share the answer with you, so read on and find out why you might need to flip your chainsaw bar upside down.

Do you need to flip your chainsaw bar upside down

There is a lot of power created by a 2-stroke motor on a chainsaw.  And all that power is converted into some serious rotational force that sends the chain ripping around the bar at high speed.  As you might expect, parts start to wear out from friction.  While we all assume the chain is the first thing to fatigue, most of us don’t realize that the bar supporting the chain can actually wear out just as fast.  

Does that mean you need to replace your bar every time you replace the chain?  Or do you just need to flip the chainsaw bar upside down?

You can easily double the life of your chainsaw bar by flipping it upside down.  Doing so evens out wear and tear on the bar caused by the rotation of the chain.  All chainsaw bars are engineered to work upside down or right side up.  

If you have doubts that your bar can flip upside down, all you need to do is check that there is an oil port (basically a hole) present on either side of the mounting groove where the bar attaches to the saw body.  Trust me when I say that every bar I have ever seen on a standard chainsaw can flip upside down.

What causes bar wear

The majority of bar wear occurs on the bottom side and tip of the bar.  This makes sense because almost all the cutting force from normal use is focused downward on the underside of the bar.  It’s this added frictional pressure that accelerates bar wear.  

Anyone bucking large amounts of firewood has probably noticed discoloration or chipped paint on the bottom side of their bar.  It’s a sign of normal wear but also an indication that your bar could benefit from a flip upside down.

Normal use causes bar wear but it takes a lot of use to really chew down the track on a good quality bar.  Premature bar wear occurs due to a lack of bar oil.  Either because you forget to use it or the oiler gets clogged.  Without bar oil, rotational friction generates a ton of heat between the bar and chain.    

Do all chainsaws have bars that can be flipped

As I briefly mentioned earlier, all chainsaw bars are designed to work properly either upside down or right side up.  Bars have a symmetrical shape and dual oiler ports that feed bar oil into the bar track.  

Chainsaw bars also have a simplified mounting groove that allows the mounting bolt and pins to fit and tighten regardless of how the bar is flipped. 

If by chance you have the rare chainsaw that has a bar which can’t be flipped then your only choice is to replace the bar.  In all likelihood, the replacement bar will be flippable.  Just make sure that the oiler hole and the oil port in the bar line up both ways.  You don’t want to block the oiler port or you’ll burn up your saw.

Never use a chainsaw with a worn out bar.  Not only will it cut crooked, it’s also more likely to throw the chain.  That’s a dangerous scenario better avoided.    

How often should you flip your chainsaw bar

Now that you know your chainsaw bar is flippable, how often do you actually need to flip it upside down?

It really depends on how hard you work the chainsaw and whether or not you have the proper tension on the chain and a constant supply of bar oil.  You can burn through expensive bars faster than your wallet can replenish the cash if you don’t keep things lubricated during use.  

In general, you should flip your bar every time you sharpen or replace your chain and replace the bar completely once you wear out two chains. 

It’s easy to tell if your bar is worn by checking for side to side wobble of the chain.  A new bar firmly holds a properly tensioned chain and prevents side to side wobble.  The chain track should be U-shaped as well.  A worn bar that would benefit from a flip has a flared V-shaped track and the chain wobbles easily.

Anytime I hear someone complain that their saw keeps throwing a chain while they are cutting, I suggest they check for bar wear.  More often than not, flipping their bar solves the problem.  

5 easy steps to flip a chainsaw bar

You don’t need to take your saw to the shop to flip the bar.  It’s easy to do at home and the only tool you need is the scrench that comes with almost every chainsaw.  If you don’t have a scrench, then use a socket wrench with the appropriate sized socket and a flat head screw driver.  Flipping the bar takes less than 10 minutes, so let’s get started.

Step 1:

Remove the bar nuts and cover.  Using the scrench tool that came with your chainsaw, remove the bar nuts and set aside.  If you don’t have a scrench tool, then a regular socket wrench will work to remove the bar nuts.  Then, pop the cover off.  Be careful not to break any plastic tabs when removing the cover.

Step 2:

Disengage the chain break, loosen the chain tensioner and remove the bar and chain.  First, disengage your chain brake safety mechanism.  Then, with the cover removed, use the flathead part of the scrench or a flathead screw driver to loosen the tensioning screw.  With the chain loose, you can now remove the bar and chain.

Step 3:

Clean away debris and check for clogged oil ports on the bar.  With the bar removed, you can inspect the bar for wear.  If both sides look equally worn then replace the bar with a new one.  If the top looks okay then simply flip it upside down.  It’s very important that you take the time to clean out the ports on the bar.  They gather a lot of gunk so use a small pick or blow out any debris blocking the oil port.  This is also a good time to remove debris from the chain sprocket, oiler port and the inside of the cover.

Step 4:

Flip the bar and place on the mounting studs followed by the chain.  With the bar flipped upside down, mount it back on the studs.  Now, reinstall the chain.  Be sure that the teeth are facing forward towards the tip of the bar on the top side.  Starting at the socket, loop the chain along the top of the bar and around the tip.  The chain guides should be resting in the bar groove.

Step 5:

Properly tension the chain, install the cover and tighten down the bar nuts.  Once the chain is in place, tighten it up.  It should be “snap tight” which means the chain guides just peek out above the bar groove when pulled and snap back in place when let go.  After applying proper tension to the chain, install the cover and torque down the bar nuts.

Final thoughts

It’s important to get the most out of your tools.  It saves you money and makes your tools work better and harder so you don’t have to.  Flipping a chainsaw bar upside down seemed like a silly thing the first time I saw it but now I know better.  Professional loggers flip their bars for a reason and even the average homeowner can benefit from this nifty trick.  Try it out and extend the life of your chainsaw bar!

The post Should You Flip Your Chainsaw Bar Upside Down: Here’s Why appeared first on Cut Stack Burn.

However, shopping for a chainsaw is just like shopping for anything else.  Endless choices with wide ranging prices.  And all you want to know is how much cash you are going to need for a quality saw, right?  Well, I have good news.

Most gas or electric chainsaws suitable for occasional tree trimming or cutting moderate amounts of firewood cost around $150 to $300.  Heavy duty applications, like cutting large quantities of firewood, require more powerful gas chainsaws that cost between $400 and $700.  When shopping at large tool retailers, expect to pay an average of $120 to $250 for a decent chainsaw.

If that quick answer doesn’t narrow your choices down enough, I’ve got you covered.  I spent a lot of time researching chainsaws when I bought mine.  Keep reading and I’ll show you how to get the best saw for your money.

Chainsaw cost by size

Chainsaw prices vary widely based on size.  Specifically, the bar size.  Chainsaw bars range in size from 10 inches long all the way up to over 30 inches long.  And the cost goes up as the bar gets longer.  Honestly, that makes sense.  A longer bar capable of cutting larger material needs a longer chain, bigger motor and beefed up components.  All that costs the manufacturer more money to make.  

Exactly how much bar size impacts the price depends on the power source as well.  Electric versus gas versus battery powered all vary from one to the other.  Yet, regardless of the power type, the general rule applies.  Longer bars cost more.  

Take a look at the chart below to see the average price of chainsaws based on bar length among all 3 types of power sources.

Average Chainsaw Cost by Bar Length

Chainsaw cost by power type

Variations in cost based on size makes logical sense.  But so do the cost differences based on the power source.  Gas, electric and battery powered chainsaws all contain different components that influence the overall price of the saw.  All other things being equal (i.e. bar length), the chart you just saw above also illustrates that power source matters in regards to price.

As you no doubt noticed, gas chainsaws tend to cost the most, averaging about $300 to $400.  Battery powered chainsaws are a close second, coming in at an average of $250.  Corded electric saw are often the most affordable chainsaws with an average cost of less than $200 for a similar sized saw.

Matching up your particular needs to the limitations of each power type is an important factor to consider closely.  Combined with the price differences in size, the power source is the next most influential part of a chainsaw’s overall cost.  Therefore, choosing the right saw could save you a lot of money.  If you’re not sure which type of chainsaw is right for you, make sure to check out that article after this one.  I discuss the three different power types in great detail. 

Chainsaw cost by brand

Selling chainsaws is a competitive market for manufacturers so price differences between brands are not as wild as you might expect.  However, some brands cater to budget conscious shoppers while others promote their saws as professional grade.  Where they usually differ is in quality and features.  Plus, some companies are just better at creating brand loyalty so they can demand a higher price.

If you are not a brand loyalist, check out the following ranking of most affordable chainsaws on up to the most expensive brands.  Keep in mind, that this list is not exhaustive so not all brands are represented.  In addition, the list is a mix of gas, electric and battery saw brands. 

Least expensive chainsaw brands

• Worx
• Greenworks
• Skil
• Remington
• Black and Decker
• Oregon
• WEN

Moderately expensive chainsaw brands

• Dewalt
• Craftsman
• Ryobi
• Makita 

More expensive chainsaw brands

• Milwaukee
• Stihl
• Echo
• Husqvarna

How much should you spend on a chainsaw

For many of us, it’s hard not to get bogged down by the sheer number of choices and conflicting information out there.  Especially, in regards to chainsaws.  As a result, most shoppers end up spending too much for way more saw than they need.  

Naturally, you are probably wondering how much you should really spend on a chainsaw to get what you need.  Unfortunately, the answer is not as straight forward as you might think.  

How much you should spend on a chainsaw depends greatly on what you will use it for and how often.  First, let’s take a look at a few common wood cutting situations most people find themselves in.  Then, we can match it up to the cost of a good saw.

Occasional yard work

For those with light tree trimming or occasional pruning, a small bar, electric (battery or corded) chainsaw is all you need.  Even if you cut up a bit of firewood in the yard, an electric saw with a 12-16 inch bar will do the job.  You shouldn’t need to spend more than $200 for a quality chainsaw for yard work applications.  In fact, you’ll probably find what you need for less than $150 if you go with a corded electric chainsaw.

Camping trips

You might just find yourself in need of a little firewood while out camping and a chainsaw is just the thing to have along.  Without electricity, a battery or gas powered saw is perfect.  For a few camping trips each season, you should think about spending $150 to $250 on a decent saw.  It will satisfy your yard trimming needs as well.  Avoid corded electric chainsaws unless you also camp with a generator or hookups.

Moderate firewood cutting

Anyone who cuts several cords of firewood each year probably needs a more powerful chainsaw.  Ideally, the perfect saw for you is portable and has enough capacity for hours of cutting at one time.  Especially, if you gather firewood out in the woods.  Battery and electric saws just won’t cut it.  Therefore, a gas powered chainsaw is best and you’ll need to pay at least $300 for a quality saw like a Stihl, Echo or Husqvarna.

Large scale wood cutting or milling

A number of you may have larger diameter trees to cut up or plan to mill slabs from large logs.  If so, don’t settle for anything smaller than 20 inch saws with plenty of power.  As such, gas powered is the only way to go.  Expect to shop for a chainsaw in the $600 and higher range.

New vs. Used chainsaws

Who doesn’t love getting a shiny, new tool!  When you buy a new chainsaw, you know it’s going to work and likely comes with a warranty to protect against faulty manufacturing.  

As nice as buying new is, you could save a pile of money by shopping for a used chainsaw instead.  It’s not without risks though and not everyone should waste money on a used saw with an unknown history.  However, there are times when used makes more sense.

First, you should only ever consider buying used gas chainsaws if you are proficient with small engine repair.  Unless you get to run it for awhile, you won’t know what kind of problems it has.  Needless to say, there are deals to be had.  A $50 Stihl at a garage sale is not unheard of.  It might bog down when it runs now but a quick cleaning of the carburetor could solve the problem.

Next, used electric chainsaws are usually a safe bet.  There is relatively little that can go wrong with an electric chainsaw.  As long as it runs when it’s plugged in, the bar is straight and it looks well maintained, go for it.  It could save you a good chunk of change.  

Buying a used battery powered chainsaw however, is kind of iffy.  Not so much because the saw itself is bad, but you probably won’t have time to check if the battery holds a charge.  If the price is right and the saw works, you can buy a new battery if needed.

Finally, you need to do your homework before jumping into any used chainsaw deal.  Make sure you know what a new comparable saw would cost and consider the expense of any unforeseen repairs or replacement parts.    

11 chainsaws for any budget

A plethora of chainsaw brands is good for consumers.  All that competition drives down prices and gives you plenty of options to choose from.  Sometimes too many options.  But not to worry.  I’ve done the homework and come up with 11 chainsaws that are actually worth buying.  Best of all, at least one of these is sure to fit within your budget.  Take a look!

Best budget saws for occasional yard work

1. Craftsman S165 Gas Chainsaw with 16-inch Bar

When you need the capabilities of a gas powered chainsaw without breaking the bank, this is the saw to get.  The Craftsman name might not command the same respect as it did decades ago but they deliver a smooth running saw that capitalizes on performance with fewer issues than similar priced knock-offs.  

The Craftsman S165 with a 16 inch bar also gives plenty of cutting length for most yard work the average homeowner encounters.  And the powerful 42cc gas motor even has what it takes to tackle some firewood chores too.  You can find this saw at Lowes for about $150 but Amazon carries it as well.  The price varies, so shop around.  Either way, it’s a bargain for a gas chainsaw.

2. Greenworks 10.5 Amp 14-inch Corded Electric Chainsaw

Not all yard work needs the power of gas to get the job done.  Instead, save some cash by going with an electric chainsaw.  The Greenworks 10.5 Amp, 14 inch corded electric chainsaw is all you really need.  It has gobs of torque and makes quick work of removing tree limbs or reducing small trees to chunks of firewood.

Greenworks makes quality saws without charging a fortune.  Coming in at about $80, it’s a bargain for budget minded do-it-yourselfers.  There are cheaper electric saws out there but the features of this saw make the few extra dollars worth spending.

Best mid-priced gas saws for serious firewood cutting

3.  Husqvarna 130 Gas Chainsaw with 16-inch Bar

Husqvarna has done a good job creating a saw that ranks among the most elite brands.  Usually, I would say their saws are in the higher brackets in terms of cost but they offer a full lineup of moderately priced chainsaws as well.

The Husqvarna 130 gas chainsaw is a reasonably priced chainsaw that is sure to please even serious wood cutters for many years.  While a 16 inch bar is on the smaller side for firewood cutting, it is still versatile enough to tackle most tasks.  Most hardware chains like Lowes and Home Depot carry Husqvarna saws but Amazon is a good place to get it too.

4. Ryobi 38cc Gas Chainsaw with 18-inch Bar

Ryobi tools are wildly popular for a reason.  They are durable, reliable and plenty affordable.  The Ryobi chainsaw lineup is no different.  With 38cc of cutting power and an 18 inch bar, cutting firewood is fast and smooth with this saw.  Don’t expect Stihl quality but this saw will last years with hard use.  

Best of all, the Ryobi 38cc gas chainsaw costs around $190.  Not the cheapest but far from the most expensive.  Your local Home Depot likely carries Ryobi saws but Amazon sells them too.  I would opt for getting it through Home Depot although Amazon is often much cheaper for the same chainsaw.

Best electric saws that won’t break the bank

5. Oregon CS1500 15 Amp Electric Chainsaw with 18-inch Bar

If all you need is an electric chainsaw to plug into an outlet while still boasting enough power for any job, then the Oregon CS1500 is my recommendation.  At just over $100, it’s cheap enough to justify buying but not so cheap as to skimp on quality.

Plus, the Oregon CS1500 comes with a top of the line chain and a slick self-sharpening feature that does good enough to keep you cutting longer than other similar saws.  Overall, it’s not a bad value and keeps up with any tough job.  

6. Worx 15 Amp Electric Chainsaw with 18-inch Bar

Here’s yet another quality electric saw that gets far less attention than it deserves.  Sure, you could spend a bit more and get a top of the line corded chainsaw but at $110, this saw is perfect.  The Worx 15 Amp electric chainsaw is super simple to operate and has the quality you need for tough conditions.  It was among my top picks for a corded electric saw when I was shopping for one, so I am sure you’ll like it too.  

It’s a tough choice between Worx and Oregon electric saws.  Home Depot carries both so you can compare them side by side.  If you’ve already decided on the Worx 15 Amp saw, then find it on Amazon for a slightly better price.

Best battery saws for the price

7. Echo 58 volt Chainsaw with 4.0Ah Battery and 16-inch Bar

The Echo 58 volt Lithium Ion powered chainsaw is by far the best money can buy.  It cuts fast, is durably built and boasts a stellar run time with the 4.0Ah battery.  This is my pick for a battery powered chainsaw that will endure years worth of wood cutting.  

It’s certainly not the cheapest battery powered chainsaw coming in at $350, but there are more expensive saws that pale in comparison to the Echo.  The best place to buy this saw is on Amazon.

8. EGO 56 volt Chainsaw with 2.5Ah Battery and 14-inch Bar

For those not wanting to cough up $350 for the Echo but want similar performance, take a look at the EGO 56 volt battery powered chainsaw.  With a 14 inch bar and only a 2.5Ah battery, you won’t get nearly the same amount of work out of it per charge.  However, it’s more than capable on tough jobs and more expensive saws actually fail to keep up.  

For only $270, the EGO 56 volt chainsaw is a bargain.  With an upgraded battery, it holds its own and is well worth the price.  Shop for it on Amazon where the price tends to be lower.

Overall best gas chainsaws that are worth the money

9. Stihl MS250 Gas Chainsaw with 18-inch Bar

Stihl chainsaws have stood the test of time and are among the best gas chainsaws available.  The MS250 saw packs a lot of power into a small package.  It can take on small yard chores plus buck up large trees for firewood.  It’s the saw I actually own and at $380, it is truly worth the money.

10. Husqvarna 455 Rancher with 20-inch Bar

For heavy duty work, you need a heavy duty saw.  The Husqvarna 455 Rancher is just the companion you need.  With a 3.4 cu. inch displacement, it delivers ample power to cut more wood than you probably care to cut.  As a top brand saw, you might expect to pay premium prices but at $499, you get a pro quality saw that lasts a lifetime.  If I were to step up to a 20 inch saw, this would be the one.  Stihl’s MS271 Farm Boss is a close second but has slightly less power.

11. Echo CS-590 Timber Wolf with 20-inch Bar

For years, Echo gas chainsaws have stayed among the top chainsaw brands.  They know how to combine power, quality and durability into lightweight saws that outperform almost all others.  

The Echo CS-590 is for anyone who needs a serious work horse for all firewood cutting chores.  It’s competitively priced at $480 and packs more power into a lighter package than either Stihl or Husqvarna.  

Other costs of owning a chainsaw

The initial purchase of a chainsaw is not the only time you’ll need to spend some money.  Maintenance, repair and fuel all cost money and some chainsaws require a lot of up keep.  

Gas chainsaws are among the more expensive saws to maintain.  Especially, if you aren’t comfortable working with 2-cycle motors.  After so many hours of use, all gas saws need to be serviced.  Sometimes it’s just as simple as cleaning out debris.  Other times it could require new spark plugs, filters, or a rebuild on the carb.  Plus, gas saws need premixed fuel which requires the purchase of 2-stroke engine oil and premium gas.

Battery powered saws also have fairly expensive up keep too.  Not necessarily in terms of maintenance though.  Instead, batteries eventually stop working.  Where you once got 40 minutes out of a charge, you now only get 10.  Today’s lithium batteries last much longer but eventually need replacing and are often $100 each.

Corded electric chainsaws are the cheapest to maintain.  However motor failures, when they happen, are not something you can usually repair.  Once an electric motor goes bad, the saw is junk.

Keep in mind, that some expenses are the same with all saws.  Things like chain sharpening or replacement, replacing a worn or bent bar and the consumption of bar oil all cost a little money.  This probably adds up to less than $20 per year depending on use.

Parting words

Every tool costs money but what really matters is how much utility you get for each dollar.  Chainsaws are awesome tools that almost any homeowner will find a use for.  Hopefully, you now know that chainsaws won’t cost a fortune and there are plenty of options to fit every budget.

The post How Much Does A Chainsaw Cost: 11 Saws That Fit Any Budget appeared first on Cut Stack Burn.

There are a couple schools of thought on the topic of splitting wood.  Some believe cut logs are easiest to split when wet or green.  While others firmly believe that seasoned, dry log rounds are much easier to split.  So, which is it?  The fact of the matter is that the truth lies somewhere in the middle.

Normally, dry firewood is much easier to split with a maul or axe compared to wood that is fresh cut and still green.  Primarily because dry wood fibers are more brittle.  Yet it largely depends on the species.  Hardwoods, like oak, typically split easiest when wet and softwoods, like fir or pine, break apart better when seasoned for a bit.  

But that is just the simplified answer.  The full answer is far more informative and more likely to help make your splitting chores easier.  After all, splitting is just one part of all the work that goes into stashing away firewood.  Continue reading to get the whole truth.

Why dry wood is easier to split

Not everyone agrees that dry wood is easier to split, and in some cases, they are not wrong.  But to keep things simple, let’s look at the general rule and ignore the exceptions.  

Firewood contains fibers that run the length of the log.  It’s these fibers that hold the cellular structure together.  Green wood that is still packed with moisture has a very cohesive fiber structure that binds everything tightly together.  However, as wood dries these fibers pull apart and become brittle.

When looking at the ends of a dry log, you’ll surely notice all the cracks.  These are called wood checks.  A splitting maul swung into the checked end of a log easily drives into a crack and breaks apart the log.  Without the moisture to absorb the blow, all that energy blasts apart the dry, brittle wood fibers.

Moisture itself also plays a major role in adding to the difficulty of splitting wet wood.  This is even more so in coniferous tree logs.  The water and sap actually acts as a drag on the head of a splitting maul.  Not only does moisture cushion the force of your axe blow, it also tends to bind up the axe head. 

The exceptions come into play when splitting certain hardwoods.  Most notably, red oak.  As oak drys, the wood fibers contract and actually bind tighter.  As a result, even the heaviest mauls bounce off a dry oak log.  

Another exception to this rule is knotty wood.  Wet or dry gnarly wood is nearly impossible to split by hand.  The same is true for woods like madrone and elm.  These woods tend to invoke cringes from my fellow hand splitters.  Some firewood is better split with hydraulic power.

Why splitting wet wood is actually less work

After I just spent an entire section explaining why it’s easier to split dry wood, you’re probably wondering why I think splitting wet wood ends up being less work.

It’s simple really.  Just ask yourself this question.  How many separate times do you want to deal with a single stack of firewood?

Unfortunately, most people who wait to split their wood until it’s dry overlook all the extra handling time and work just to save a little effort on the splitting.  Look at it this way.  

First you fell the tree, then you cut it up.  You can either split it right then or you can stack the rounds and let it dry for months.  If you opt for drying the logs first, you then have to unstack it later, split it, then stack it a second time.  That is a ton of extra work.  It is far better and so much easier just to cut, split and stack the wood in one go.  

So overall, dry wood might split apart easier but it’s almost always more efficient and less work to split wood as soon as you cut it while it is still green.  Obviously, you can’t always help it and some wood splitting has to wait.

Are all wood species easier to split if dry

We kind of touched on this already.  Not all species of wood have the same fiber structure and therefore, have unique splitting habits.  Even trees of the same species grown in different regions split with varying difficulty.  Ask someone in one part of the country when they prefer to split a pile of maple rounds and their answer is bound to be different than someone on the opposite side of the country.

Even so, there is a general consensus as to which kinds of wood is easiest to split green versus dry.  Not everyone will see eye to eye on this but most will find it agreeable.  I’ll make it easy and summarize below.

Wood species easiest to split when dry/seasoned

• Alder
• Cedar
• Cherry
• Fir
• Hickory
• Pine
• Spruce
• Sycamore

Wood species easiest to split when wet/green

• Oak
• Locust
• Apple
• Birch
• Cottonwood

Wood species that split the same wet or dry

• Ash
• Maple
• Walnut

Wood species that never split easily

• Elm
• Gum
• Madrone

Again, this is not a hard and fast rule.  Plenty of you might disagree with the list as it stands now.  Just bear in mind that splitting green wood is less work overall regardless of the species.  Even if the wood does split easier when dry.

Should you split logs before seasoning

Aside from being less work, splitting firewood that is still green is the fastest way to thoroughly dry it out.  It is therefore advisable that you split your wood prior to seasoning in order to reduce the drying time.  

This of course depends on the time of year.  If you just cut up a fir tree in early spring and won’t need to burn it until the following winter, you can get away with letting it dry as rounds through summer.  It will dry out fine and you can split it after a few months when it succumbs more easily to a splitting maul.

However, if you instead just cut up a live tree at the end of summer, it’s unlikely to dry in time for winter without splitting it up first.  

With either scenario, you need to consider the pros and cons of splitting it now versus waiting.  In the end, split wood always dries more evenly and much faster.  

How do you make splitting wood easier

Like any challenging task, the right tools make all the difference in the world.  Dry or wet, you’ll never split a wood log with a tiny hatchet.  Invest in the right equipment to make things as easy as possible.

Tools to make hand splitting easier

Wet or dry, splitting firewood manually will make you sweat.  A key tool to reducing your efforts is a splitting maul.  Really it is nothing more than a large, tapered chunk of steel with a semi-sharp edge.  The splitting power comes from the weight of the head.  Mauls typically tip the scale at 8 to 12 pounds.  

However, before you go out and buy the heaviest maul you can find, remember that it’s a lot of work to lift a maul above your head over and over.  The ideal maul weight for you is whatever you can lift over your head without tiring and still split a log in one swing.

For most of us, an 8 pound maul is the perfect balance.  Smaller mauls are also a great option for smaller individuals or anyone splitting smaller logs.  Consider a 6 pound splitting axe for this situations.  A splitting axe, like the Fiskars X27, will actually give any larger maul a run for its money. 

In addition to a maul, a splitting wedge is essential.  I have yet to split a pile of rounds without encountering a gnarly, knotted chunk that just won’t split with a maul alone.  Enter the splitting wedge.  With a wedge, you can use the back end of a maul to drive the wedge deeper into the log until it splits. The Estwing Sure Split 5 pound steel wedge has never failed me and is a great option. 

Log splitters

Anyone splitting several cords of wood a year should probably consider investing in a log splitter.  I like the exercise of hand splitting wood just as much as the next guy but a log splitter turns an otherwise arduous task into a quick afternoon chore.

With hydraulic log splitters, the issue of splitting green versus seasoned wood becomes a moot point.  The ram driving the wedge into a log will rip apart wet or dry wood without a problem.  Depending on the power rating of course.

Wood splitters range in size from less than 10 tons all the way above 40 tons.  Deciding on which ton rating you need depends on the wood species you most often use as firewood.  Most hardwood logs over 12 inches in diameter require a minimum of 26 tons of splitting force.  You can get away with a 20 ton splitter for softwoods.  

Ideally, you don’t want to be operating at the maximum power rating of a log splitter. So, 26 ton splitters are my recommended minimum to keep from over working the machine.  For those of you dealing with tough, knot infested wood, go for a 34 ton splitter to make it as easy as possible.

Can you use a chainsaw to split logs

There are many ways to split wood and using a chainsaw is one of them.  In fact, here is a great video demonstrating how it is done. 

While splitting wood with a chainsaw is possible and a little easier on the back, it often takes longer and you loose a lot of burnable wood in the form of wood shavings.  Plus, you have to endure the whine of a chainsaw all day long to get the job done.  

In my opinion, the chainsaw is best left for bucking up trees into rounds.  The only time I use a chainsaw to help split is when a particularly nasty chunk of wood won’t yield to a maul.  I simply cut into the end of the log a few inches and then hit the cut line with my splitting maul or wedge.  That usually gives me just enough bite to bust apart stubborn logs.

Is splitting frozen wood easy

I’ve often heard that frozen wood splits remarkably well.  Obviously, this is more advantageous for wood that is still green and full of moisture.  It makes sense when you think about it.  Water expands when frozen so wood with moisture inside is already generating pressure from within which makes separating the fibers much easier.

Clearly, you need to live somewhere very cold to take advantage of this phenomena.  Even if you don’t, you can stick a piece of wood in the freezer for a few days and try it out for yourself.

Frozen wood generally splits quite easily compared to non-frozen logs.  It also does not seem to matter which species of wood you are splitting.

Unfortunately, many of us don’t live in frigid climates (or care to split wood in sub-zero temperatures) so splitting frozen wood is not the most practical way to make it easier.  

Conclusion

To sum it up, it may be easier to split dry wood in most cases but that doesn’t mean you won’t work harder.  In general, just split your wood when it is still green to spare yourself the extra work of handling the firewood more than once.  

Once you decide that now is the time to do all your splitting, take a look at my recent article comparing splitting axes versus mauls.  One of these will actually make splitting easier.  Find out which one it is!

The post Is It Easier To Split Wet Or Dry Wood: The Real Answer appeared first on Cut Stack Burn.

Unless you have some sort of log splitter, chances are you’ll need a splitting axe or maul.  Unfortunately, many people don’t know which tool is best for them.  In all honesty, you probably should have both.  It’s a tough dilemma for those who want to decide on one versus the other.  Hence the question, should you buy a splitting axe or a maul?  And what is the difference?  Here’s the quick answer.

A splitting axe is lighter than a maul and can be used much longer without fatigue.  However, a maul is capable of splitting larger rounds with less effort than an axe.  For those splitting a lot of knotted or tight grained wood, a maul is usually a wiser choice.  For everyone else, a splitting axe is more comfortable to use.  

Like most situations, the short answer hardly scratches the surface.  So keep reading to find out which you should buy for your firewood splitting needs.

Splitting Axe vs. Maul: What’s the difference

In their most basic form, a splitting axe and maul are both designed to split wood along the length of the wood fibers.  Yet, there are a few key differences that make one tool a better choice depending on the task.  So, let’s take a look at the three primary features that differentiate a splitting axe from a maul.

Weight

The formula for splitting wood is pretty straight forward.  Take a wedge shaped piece of metal and apply enough force to drive it between the wood fibers at the end of a log.  The amount of force required to accomplish this largely relies on weight.  

In terms of weight, a splitting axe is simply the lighter version of a splitting maul.  In most cases, a splitting axe weighs anywhere from 3-6 pounds and a maul has more heft to it at 6-12 pounds.  

When it comes to splitting power, think of it this way.  It takes less force to lift a splitting axe above your head than it does a heavier maul.  However, you must apply more downward speed with a splitting axe to deliver the same amount of force as a slower moving maul.  The importance of this point will become more apparent later.

Head design

The head of any axe or maul is a critical component to how it functions.  The cutting edge on both a splitting axe and maul have a wide wedge shape perfect for ripping apart wood fibers.  However, a maul has a much larger head reminiscent of a sledgehammer on the butt with a thick wedge shape at the other end.  This not only makes it a great multi-use tool for around the farm, it is also necessary to add more weight. 

In addition, the cutting edge on a splitting axe is kept a bit sharper than it is on a maul.  With less weight to power it through a log, you need a finer edge to keep it from bouncing off.  Don’t get me wrong.  It’s not a razor sharp edge.  Just a honed edge that allows the bevel to cut into the wood.  A splitting maul, on the other hand, is not sharp at all but it shouldn’t be mushroomed out or flattened on the cutting edge either.

Handle

Another key difference between a splitting axe and a maul is the variability in handle length.  Splitting axes have a much larger range of handle sizes which speaks volumes toward their versatility.  For around camp, there are compact splitting axes with 24 inch handles or you can size up to full length handles for serious wood splitting.  Mauls, on the other hand, typically have 33-36 inch long handles.  This gives you a longer swing with more force and slightly more control. 

Handle materials of splitting axes and mauls are similar.  You can choose from hickory wood handles or tough fiberglass handles.  Grip styles vary and are entirely personal preference.  Ideally, you need a handle with good grip even in wet conditions so you never have the axe slip from your hands.

Splitting axe

I would argue that everyone should have a splitting axe around the house.  Nevertheless, if you aren’t sure a splitting axe fits the bill, let’s dig a little deeper and see what makes a splitting axe a better, or worse, choice for splitting firewood.

Advantages

Lifting a 10 pound chunk of steel over your head all day is not for everyone.  Even so, the wood splitting has to get done which leads us to the most obvious advantage of a splitting axe.  It’s much lighter than a splitting maul.  Since they are typically 4 or 5 pounds, you can split quite a bit more wood without the fatigue.  Assuming, of course, your firewood is relatively free of knots and splits easily.  

While not intended for chopping across wood grain fibers like a traditional axe, a splitting axe is indeed quite versatile.  They can wack limbs off a fallen tree or turn dry cedar into kindling.  You would be hard pressed to do that with a maul.  You can get even more versatility from your splitting axe depending on the head size and handle length.  Consider them your jack of all trades whereas a maul is more limited.

Arguably, a splitting axe’s biggest advantage is in the precision of the split.  Because you are not wrestling with a huge chunk of steel on the down swing, you have significantly more control over placement.  You also won’t experience as much fatigue so you’ll get the most from every swing. 

Disadvantages

Unfortunately, this is one of those cases where an advantage is also a disadvantage in some situations.  Since a splitting axe is smaller and lighter than a maul, you just can’t get the same amount of force behind your swings.  That means lightweight splitting axes are out gunned by heavily knotted or tight grained woods.  

It’s a double edged sword that depends on your needs to decide if you’ll be helped or hindered by it.  Certainly, I would rather swing a 4 pound axe all day but not if I only make one split for every 3 swings.  I also hate when a splitting axe buries itself in a log, requiring a fair amount of effort to free it.  

In addition, to make up for the smaller head, you’ll likely swing harder and faster to increase the force on tougher pieces of wood.  This leads to less accurate strikes and more fatigue.  A heavy maul is more likely to save some energy and make quicker work on gnarly wood.

Who should get one

In all likelihood, most average homeowners with a moderate amount of firewood to split could get by with a splitting axe of some kind.  Everyone’s situation is different so take a look at the following list of reasons why you might prefer a splitting axe over a maul.

• Anyone splitting moderate amounts of smaller logs with few knots
• Those needing a versatile tool for home or camping firewood needs
• Smaller individuals that find heavy mauls difficult to use
• Anyone struggling to get accurate strikes with a maul

Still not convinced a splitting axe is the best tool for you?  Now take a look at why some firewood experts prefer a maul.

Splitting maul

Any serious firewood guru is going to tell you that nothing beats a maul for splitting wood.  If you’re going to be stockpiling enough wood for winter then you should consider having a maul in your arsenal of tools.

Advantages

When it comes to raw splitting power, a heavy maul is tough to beat.  All that mass lifted high above your head translates into some serious energy that can split just about any log.  Only the most knotted and stubborn wood won’t succumb to a 10 pound maul.  Even an 8 pound maul will rip through most rounds in one swing with skilled hands.  Factor in a long straight handle and you’ll get the most from every swing.

If you do finally meet your match on a particularly tough piece of wood, a maul can then be used to pound a splitting wedge through it.  Simply turn the maul over and use the sledgehammer end to drive in the wedge.  That sledgehammer design is also useful for other jobs around your property as well.  You can use the butt end of a splitting maul head just as you would use any sledgehammer.

An additional advantage of a maul over a splitting axe is it’s durability.  The thick cutting edge can handle loads of abuse.  Have a miss hit?  No problem.  Bust through a log and stick the head into the ground?  Big deal.  Mauls have hardened steel heads that resist chipping and even when they are dull, they hardly slow down.  Splitting axes start to suffer when hard use rounds off the cutting edge.

Disadvantages

There are a few disadvantages to be aware of that may make a splitting maul a poor choice for you.  

First off, a maul is heavy and cumbersome to swing which typically translates to low accuracy and severe fatigue.  Smaller people tend to tire more easily when using a maul and it takes time to develop the right technique to split wood efficiently with an 8 to 12 pound maul.  

For beginners, a maul might not be the best tool to start with.  In fact, it can actually be dangerous for inexperienced individuals to wildly swing a maul.  Miss hits can cause serious injury.  Sure, miss hits happen with splitting axes too but the lighter weight axe is easier to control.  

There is also the issue of limited versatility.  A maul is not suitable for any firewood chores other than splitting wood.  De-limbing or splitting small chunks of wood is better suited for a splitting axe. 

Who should get one

From time to time, we all need a bit more muscle to get the job done and a maul is there to help you out.  Think a maul is the better choice for you?  I would probably agree if you fit into any of the following situations.

• You have enough strength to manage a heavy maul for a long duration
• The wood you split is full of knots or you need to use splitting wedges
• For those who split several cords by hand every year
• Anyone looking for a splitting tool and sledgehammer combo

Everyone else can get away with a lightweight splitting axe in most other situations.  

Cost comparison

Most of us are always concerned with the cost comparisons of any tool we buy.  Splitting axes and mauls are no exception.  In terms of price, there is actually very little cost difference between splitting axes and mauls. 

Depending on quality and brand, you can expect to pay between $30 and $120 for a splitting axe or maul.  On average, a maul will be slightly more expensive due to the larger quantity of high grade steel used in the head.  Handle material and length also factors into the overall cost of both tools. 

Parting words

Choosing between a splitting axe or a maul is a personal choice that depends greatly on your specific situation.  However, instead of trying to choose one or the other, you may benefit from having both.  That way, you can tackle any wood splitting chore that comes your way.

The post Which Should You Buy: Splitting Axe vs. Maul appeared first on Cut Stack Burn.