But just the same, how much do you need to spend to get the results you want?  And how much do BBQ grills actually cost?  Here is the quickest answer for those in a rush.

The average cost of a BBQ today is between $150-$500.  Small, portable, gas or charcoal BBQs might be as cheap as $25 while high end grills start at about $750.  Some of the most elite grill setups are over $5,000.  However, there are quality charcoal, gas and pellet grills that easily yield delicious BBQ food for around $450.

Need a little more direction about where to start?  That’s why I am here.  Not only will we go through the different cost considerations, we’ll also take a look at 9 of the best grills that fit any budget.  One of them is sure to work for you!

Is it worth buying a BBQ

Any meat eater will find that the purchase of a barbecue grill is definitely worth the investment.  A quality grill will provide years of delicious food and unique tastes that you just can’t get from cooking in the kitchen.  

Even if you only enjoy grilled food on rare occasions, a grill could still be a worthwhile purchase.  A small, inexpensive barbecue might run you less than $50 and suitably cook dozens of grilled steaks, hotdogs and burgers with ease.  Compare that to buying a lunch or two at your local BBQ pit and you’ll certainly be money ahead.

The only people who may not get enough grilling action to justify the cost of a barbecue are those that live in urban settings or apartment buildings.  Local covenants and grilling restrictions might make grilling excessively difficult and not worth the effort.  If this includes you, occasionally treating yourself to barbecue flavors at a restaurant might be a better option.   

How much should you pay for a grill

Asking how much you should pay for a grill is a tough question to answer.  It’s not easy putting a precise value on your enjoyment of food after all.  Just the same, I think asking yourself this question is still a good idea.  Especially since a more expensive barbecue doesn’t always equate to more delicious food.

To get restaurant quality barbecued food, you should spend at least $250 on a grill.  At this price point, you start to get heavy cast iron grates, better quality burners (if propane) and better heat control.  If you want to master a full range of grilling and smoking, you should spend around $450 to $700 to get the right features.

However, once you launch above those price points, you are more likely paying for fancy features and stylish looks than you are for enhanced cooking capabilities.  Above the $1,000 range, you get diminishing returns.

With that in mind, you should set your grilling expectations first and then find a grill that maximizes the quality of barbecued food you expect for the most reasonable price.  For me, the way a grill looks is secondary to the food it produces.  Don’t be afraid to pay for some handy features.  Just understand that more money doesn’t equal better tasting meats.

When is the best time to buy a grill

Sales happen all year but there are definitely better times to get steep discounts on the grill you want.  Even if you’ve already picked out the right grill, a little patience before buying can lead to huge savings.

New grills start hitting stores by March as peak grilling season ramps up which makes this an unlikely time to find any deals.  Demand is high and less savvy shoppers fork over top dollar to get their new grill before Fourth of July celebrations.  Unless you have no alternative, avoid buying a grill in March through the end of July.  

The absolute best time to buy a new grill starts in August when interest in outdoor grilling wanes and stores offer big discounts to sell leftover inventory.  Holiday sales including Memorial Day, Fourth of July and Labor Day are also good opportunities to find modest discounts.  January and February are great times to save money on last year’s models as box stores try to make room for next season’s grills.

For more on the best grill shopping times, check out my article here. I give the full rundown of all the best sale events so you get the most for your money!

Additional costs of a grill

Obviously, the grill itself is where you spend most of your money but there are other costs to consider as well.  Accessories and fuel probably won’t make or break your choice in grills but let’s list things out so you know what to expect.

• Fuel:  Every grill requires some sort of fuel for its heat source.  Gas grills use propane, charcoal grills use briquettes or lump charcoal and pellet grills go through pellets by the bag full.  Prices vary depending on where you buy your fuel and the quality of fuel you buy.  Regardless of the fuel type, a typical grilling session costs $0.50 to $1.  

• Accessories:  Go down any grilling isle at the store and you’ll see loads of accessories to aid your quest to grilling perfection.  Some are useful while some are a waste of money.  It’s all personal preference.  At the vary least, you need a grate cleaner, spatula, tongs and a quality instant-read thermometer.  All that will run you about $100.

• Grill cover:  Your grill is an expensive investment that should last years.  Yet, without a grill cover, any grill stored outside all year will quickly rust and wear out.  A grill cover is a cheap way to ensure you get full use from your grill for years to come.  Custom fitting covers start as low as $20 and range up to over $100 for high quality materials that truly protect your BBQ from the elements.

9 Grills that fit any budget

After a quick internet search for the best grills, you’ll be swamped with countless offerings.  There are over a dozen good brands selling many more grill models than you care to know about.  

How do you choose?  My advice, don’t over think it.  Decide what kind of grilling you are actually going to enjoy most often and balance quality with cost.  Avoid going cheap but don’t get suckered into more grill than you could ever use.  This other article of mine will help you decide between charcoal and gas grills if you aren’t quite sure which is best for you.

Take a look at these 9 grills sure to fit any budget.  I filtered through the junk and compiled a well balanced mix of grills actually worth buying.  See for yourself!

Best portable BBQs for on-the-go grillers

1. Weber Q 1200 Gas Grill

For portable steakhouse quality grilling power, nothing beats the Weber Q series.  The Weber Q 1200 is a go-anywhere grill that blends performance and quality into a nice tidy package.  It’s the grill I use most often and I can vouch for the beautiful sear marks, even heating and foolproof simplicity.  It’s not perfect but darn close.  The Weber Q 1200 is modestly priced at about $240. 

2. Cuisinart Petit Gourmet Gas Grill with Versastand

The Cuisinart Petit grill looks unassuming but I assure you this is a grill that gets it done.  It’s a super portable package that yields delicious flame seared meals.  It might lack the heavy cast-iron grates and heavy lid like the Weber Q but it heats up fast and cooks remarkably even across all 145 square inches of grilling surface.  I have yet to try a grill as portable as this one and the Versastand is a nice touch for on-the-go grilling.  At only $200, it’s a worthwhile purchase.

3. Weber Smokey Joe 14” Charcoal Grill

Weber has long since cornered the market on portable charcoal grills and the Weber Smokey Joe 14” grill proves that point.  It’s an affordable BBQ that distills grilling down into its truest form.  With a handful of briquettes, you have a versatile barbecue with capabilities rivaling his bigger cousins.  Simple air flow control and a wide range of grilling temperatures are but a few of the perks.  Did I mention it only costs $40?

Best gas grills for everyday use

4. Weber Spirit II E-310, 3 Burner Gas Grill

If it seems like Weber occupies a large slot in this list, that’s because it does.  After all, they make awesome grills.  And the Weber Spirit II E-310, 3 burner gas grill is one of the best.  With 30,000 BTUs of cooking power and over 500 square inches of cooking space, you can grill up a feast for any crowd.  It’s feature loaded while still harnessing a simple aesthetic that looks as good as it cooks.  Any backyard chef will love this grill.  At $570, it has enough thoughtful features making it worth the price.  

5. Napoleon Rogue XT 3 Burner Gas Grill

Anyone who loves grilling will appreciate the Napoleon Rogue XT 3 burner gas grill.  This grill is a step up from the Weber and boasts every essential feature you could want like 51,000 BTUs of meat searing heat, 620 square inches of cooking space, a huge range of temperature control for the ultimate in versatility, porcelainize cast-iron grates and a side burner for prepping sauces or frying up a side dish.  There is even an included wood chip box to turn this grill into a low temperature smoker.  It’s everything you need for outdoor cooking and worth the $700 price tag. Get it at Lowes instead if Amazon prices rise.

Best charcoal BBQ’s for avid pit masters

6. Kamado Joe Classic 18” Charcoal Grill

Once you venture into the world of charcoal grilling, you’ll see that it is almost an art.  The Kamado Joe Classic 18” grill is the perfect canvas for backyard pit masters.  Unlike gas grills, you can tailor the burn for any kind of cooking.  Low and slow smokes turn out great in the heat retaining ceramic shell or you can turn up the heat to get a perfect sear on a flat iron steak.  Kamado Joe grills are a premium way to add robust flavors and smoke using real charcoal flame.  It’s pricey at $800 but it will surely elevate the way you grill.

7. Weber Original Kettle Premium 22” Charcoal Grill

For the more budget minded grillers that still love the allure of charcoal cooking, check out the Weber Original Kettle.  Well, actually the Premium 22” to be exact.  There are some handy additions and better temperature control with the Premium model that make the slight jump in price worth it.  You truly get full versatility like the Kamado Joe but a little less heat retention.  That makes low temperature cooks challenging but not impossible.  But it’s priced right and is probably the best sub $200 barbecue money can buy.

Best pellet grills for complete versatility

8. Traeger Pro Series 22 Pellet Grill

Traeger pellet grills were, are and probably will continue to be, all the rage.  Why? Because pellet grills are awesome!  I love all kinds of grilling but pellet grills upped my flavor game overnight.  With the Traeger Pro Series 22 pellet grill, you can experience the same boost in authentic smokey flavors for less than $700.  There are bigger models but the price gets steep.  The Pro Series 22 has 572 square inches of grilling space which is plenty for all but the biggest family gatherings.  Plus, most of the advanced features of more expensive models are not essential.  

9. Z-Grills Pioneer 450A Pellet Grill

Plenty of people want to add a pellet grill to their arsenal of backyard cooking gear but don’t care to spend a small fortune.  Luckily, there are loads of thriftier options now.  Z-Grills Pioneer 450A pellet grill is less than $400 but is still a high quality unit that can go toe to toe with the Traeger Pro Series 22.  Quality materials, superb temperature control and every bit as versatile.  Smoke, bake and grill with ease.  For anyone that wants a pellet grill without the Traeger price tag, this is a phenomenal grill worth considering. 

One last thing

Grills aren’t cheap but you also don’t need to spend a fortune to get bold flavors and restaurant caliber results.  Now that you’ve read this article, hopefully you have a better idea of how much you really need to spend to achieve all your grilling needs.  Take your time, do the research and patiently wait for a sale so you’ll find the perfect grill at a price you can really sink your teeth into.

The post How Much Does A BBQ Cost: 9 Grills To Fit Any Budget appeared first on Cut Stack Burn.

There are a couple schools of thought on the topic of splitting wood.  Some believe cut logs are easiest to split when wet or green.  While others firmly believe that seasoned, dry log rounds are much easier to split.  So, which is it?  The fact of the matter is that the truth lies somewhere in the middle.

Normally, dry firewood is much easier to split with a maul or axe compared to wood that is fresh cut and still green.  Primarily because dry wood fibers are more brittle.  Yet it largely depends on the species.  Hardwoods, like oak, typically split easiest when wet and softwoods, like fir or pine, break apart better when seasoned for a bit.  

But that is just the simplified answer.  The full answer is far more informative and more likely to help make your splitting chores easier.  After all, splitting is just one part of all the work that goes into stashing away firewood.  Continue reading to get the whole truth.

Why dry wood is easier to split

Not everyone agrees that dry wood is easier to split, and in some cases, they are not wrong.  But to keep things simple, let’s look at the general rule and ignore the exceptions.  

Firewood contains fibers that run the length of the log.  It’s these fibers that hold the cellular structure together.  Green wood that is still packed with moisture has a very cohesive fiber structure that binds everything tightly together.  However, as wood dries these fibers pull apart and become brittle.

When looking at the ends of a dry log, you’ll surely notice all the cracks.  These are called wood checks.  A splitting maul swung into the checked end of a log easily drives into a crack and breaks apart the log.  Without the moisture to absorb the blow, all that energy blasts apart the dry, brittle wood fibers.

Moisture itself also plays a major role in adding to the difficulty of splitting wet wood.  This is even more so in coniferous tree logs.  The water and sap actually acts as a drag on the head of a splitting maul.  Not only does moisture cushion the force of your axe blow, it also tends to bind up the axe head. 

The exceptions come into play when splitting certain hardwoods.  Most notably, red oak.  As oak drys, the wood fibers contract and actually bind tighter.  As a result, even the heaviest mauls bounce off a dry oak log.  

Another exception to this rule is knotty wood.  Wet or dry gnarly wood is nearly impossible to split by hand.  The same is true for woods like madrone and elm.  These woods tend to invoke cringes from my fellow hand splitters.  Some firewood is better split with hydraulic power.

Why splitting wet wood is actually less work

After I just spent an entire section explaining why it’s easier to split dry wood, you’re probably wondering why I think splitting wet wood ends up being less work.

It’s simple really.  Just ask yourself this question.  How many separate times do you want to deal with a single stack of firewood?

Unfortunately, most people who wait to split their wood until it’s dry overlook all the extra handling time and work just to save a little effort on the splitting.  Look at it this way.  

First you fell the tree, then you cut it up.  You can either split it right then or you can stack the rounds and let it dry for months.  If you opt for drying the logs first, you then have to unstack it later, split it, then stack it a second time.  That is a ton of extra work.  It is far better and so much easier just to cut, split and stack the wood in one go.  

So overall, dry wood might split apart easier but it’s almost always more efficient and less work to split wood as soon as you cut it while it is still green.  Obviously, you can’t always help it and some wood splitting has to wait.

Are all wood species easier to split if dry

We kind of touched on this already.  Not all species of wood have the same fiber structure and therefore, have unique splitting habits.  Even trees of the same species grown in different regions split with varying difficulty.  Ask someone in one part of the country when they prefer to split a pile of maple rounds and their answer is bound to be different than someone on the opposite side of the country.

Even so, there is a general consensus as to which kinds of wood is easiest to split green versus dry.  Not everyone will see eye to eye on this but most will find it agreeable.  I’ll make it easy and summarize below.

Wood species easiest to split when dry/seasoned

• Alder
• Cedar
• Cherry
• Fir
• Hickory
• Pine
• Spruce
• Sycamore

Wood species easiest to split when wet/green

• Oak
• Locust
• Apple
• Birch
• Cottonwood

Wood species that split the same wet or dry

• Ash
• Maple
• Walnut

Wood species that never split easily

• Elm
• Gum
• Madrone

Again, this is not a hard and fast rule.  Plenty of you might disagree with the list as it stands now.  Just bear in mind that splitting green wood is less work overall regardless of the species.  Even if the wood does split easier when dry.

Should you split logs before seasoning

Aside from being less work, splitting firewood that is still green is the fastest way to thoroughly dry it out.  It is therefore advisable that you split your wood prior to seasoning in order to reduce the drying time.  

This of course depends on the time of year.  If you just cut up a fir tree in early spring and won’t need to burn it until the following winter, you can get away with letting it dry as rounds through summer.  It will dry out fine and you can split it after a few months when it succumbs more easily to a splitting maul.

However, if you instead just cut up a live tree at the end of summer, it’s unlikely to dry in time for winter without splitting it up first.  

With either scenario, you need to consider the pros and cons of splitting it now versus waiting.  In the end, split wood always dries more evenly and much faster.  

How do you make splitting wood easier

Like any challenging task, the right tools make all the difference in the world.  Dry or wet, you’ll never split a wood log with a tiny hatchet.  Invest in the right equipment to make things as easy as possible.

Tools to make hand splitting easier

Wet or dry, splitting firewood manually will make you sweat.  A key tool to reducing your efforts is a splitting maul.  Really it is nothing more than a large, tapered chunk of steel with a semi-sharp edge.  The splitting power comes from the weight of the head.  Mauls typically tip the scale at 8 to 12 pounds.  

However, before you go out and buy the heaviest maul you can find, remember that it’s a lot of work to lift a maul above your head over and over.  The ideal maul weight for you is whatever you can lift over your head without tiring and still split a log in one swing.

For most of us, an 8 pound maul is the perfect balance.  Smaller mauls are also a great option for smaller individuals or anyone splitting smaller logs.  Consider a 6 pound splitting axe for this situations.  A splitting axe, like the Fiskars X27, will actually give any larger maul a run for its money. 

In addition to a maul, a splitting wedge is essential.  I have yet to split a pile of rounds without encountering a gnarly, knotted chunk that just won’t split with a maul alone.  Enter the splitting wedge.  With a wedge, you can use the back end of a maul to drive the wedge deeper into the log until it splits. The Estwing Sure Split 5 pound steel wedge has never failed me and is a great option. 

Log splitters

Anyone splitting several cords of wood a year should probably consider investing in a log splitter.  I like the exercise of hand splitting wood just as much as the next guy but a log splitter turns an otherwise arduous task into a quick afternoon chore.

With hydraulic log splitters, the issue of splitting green versus seasoned wood becomes a moot point.  The ram driving the wedge into a log will rip apart wet or dry wood without a problem.  Depending on the power rating of course.

Wood splitters range in size from less than 10 tons all the way above 40 tons.  Deciding on which ton rating you need depends on the wood species you most often use as firewood.  Most hardwood logs over 12 inches in diameter require a minimum of 26 tons of splitting force.  You can get away with a 20 ton splitter for softwoods.  

Ideally, you don’t want to be operating at the maximum power rating of a log splitter. So, 26 ton splitters are my recommended minimum to keep from over working the machine.  For those of you dealing with tough, knot infested wood, go for a 34 ton splitter to make it as easy as possible.

Can you use a chainsaw to split logs

There are many ways to split wood and using a chainsaw is one of them.  In fact, here is a great video demonstrating how it is done. 

While splitting wood with a chainsaw is possible and a little easier on the back, it often takes longer and you loose a lot of burnable wood in the form of wood shavings.  Plus, you have to endure the whine of a chainsaw all day long to get the job done.  

In my opinion, the chainsaw is best left for bucking up trees into rounds.  The only time I use a chainsaw to help split is when a particularly nasty chunk of wood won’t yield to a maul.  I simply cut into the end of the log a few inches and then hit the cut line with my splitting maul or wedge.  That usually gives me just enough bite to bust apart stubborn logs.

Is splitting frozen wood easy

I’ve often heard that frozen wood splits remarkably well.  Obviously, this is more advantageous for wood that is still green and full of moisture.  It makes sense when you think about it.  Water expands when frozen so wood with moisture inside is already generating pressure from within which makes separating the fibers much easier.

Clearly, you need to live somewhere very cold to take advantage of this phenomena.  Even if you don’t, you can stick a piece of wood in the freezer for a few days and try it out for yourself.

Frozen wood generally splits quite easily compared to non-frozen logs.  It also does not seem to matter which species of wood you are splitting.

Unfortunately, many of us don’t live in frigid climates (or care to split wood in sub-zero temperatures) so splitting frozen wood is not the most practical way to make it easier.  

Conclusion

To sum it up, it may be easier to split dry wood in most cases but that doesn’t mean you won’t work harder.  In general, just split your wood when it is still green to spare yourself the extra work of handling the firewood more than once.  

Once you decide that now is the time to do all your splitting, take a look at my recent article comparing splitting axes versus mauls.  One of these will actually make splitting easier.  Find out which one it is!

The post Is It Easier To Split Wet Or Dry Wood: The Real Answer appeared first on Cut Stack Burn.

If you are tired of smokey backyard fires that stink up your clothes while raining down ash and soot, then you’ve probably considered a smokeless fire pit.  That’s quite a claim though.  A smoke free fire pit that burns real wood seems impossible.  Until you see it for yourself, it’s normal to wonder if a smokeless fire pit actually works.

Smokeless fire pits do work.  With a double wall design made to boost oxygen flow, smokeless fire pits can generate much higher temperatures than a standard fire pit.  As a result, any residual smoke fully combusts before escaping the flames which creates an almost smoke free fire. 

Anxious to ditch smokey fires and get a smokeless fire pit instead?  You’re not alone.  But before you make the purchase, there are a few caveats you need to know about.  Read on and I’ll divulge what you can really expect from a smokeless fire pit.

How do smokeless fire pits work

The recipe for fire is simple.  Heat, fuel and oxygen are the only three ingredients you need.  Most fire pits fail to maintain the right ratio of ingredients which ends up causing a lot of smoke.  And the primary culprit behind all that smoke is a lack of oxygen.

Smokeless pits work by maintaining a constant source of oxygen resulting in a much hotter fire.  They do this by utilizing a double wall design that pulls air from the bottom and superheats it as it flows up and out strategically placed vents at the top of the pit.  This superheated air mixes with residual smoke, generating a secondary combustion cycle.  

Ultimately, this dual combustion system is what results in significantly less smoke.  Notice, I said less smoke not zero smoke.  You’ll need to temper your expectations a little bit.  Smokeless fire pits get their name because they “smoke less” than a standard fire pit.  They do produce a small amount of smoke but way less than any other fires I’ve sat around.

Do smokeless fire pits radiate heat

Most of us fire pit aficionados love feeling the warm radiant heat that a wood burning fire throws off.  Get a blazing fire going and you instantly feel the heat.  

Despite burning super hot, smokeless fire pits send most of their heat blasting straight up toward the sky.  A lot less heat radiates from the sides towards those gathered around the fire.  This is most likely because of the double wall design.  

Don’t get me wrong.  There’s still a fair bit of heat generated from the sides of a smokeless fire pit.  Just not quite as much as you would expect.  Especially, compared to a traditional fire pit.  Often you need to be much closer to smokeless fire pits to stay warm.  Most smokeless fire pits have a heating radius of 3-4 feet.  Beyond that, you’ll be reaching for a blanket.  The sides are still scorching hot though, so don’t touch.

For some, it’s a little bit of a let down so keep that in mind.  However, there are ways to boost up the heating power of a smokeless pit.  Depending on the make and model, there are stands that elevate the fire pit off the ground.  In doing so, heat from the bottom actually adds some warmth to your feet and legs while sitting by the fire. 

Do smokeless fire pits use more wood

Every last scrap of wood is reduced to fine ash in a smokeless fire pit.  Yet, that high efficiency burn comes at a price.  While smokeless pits efficiently extract every BTU from a log, they are not good at making a pile of wood last.

Those extra hot flames in a smokeless fire pit mean you’ll burn through a lot more wood than a similar sized standard fire pit.  It’s not necessarily a deal breaker for everyone but it is still something to consider.  

Why is my smokeless fire pit smoking

Nothing dashes your high expectations of a smokeless fire pit like a big plume of smoke emanating from it.  I guess that means they don’t actually work, right?  Well, not quite.

Your smokeless fire pit is probably smoking because something is disrupting the flow of oxygen or reducing the internal temperature of the combustion chamber which prevents a smoke free burn.

There are 3 main reasons why your smokeless fire pit is smoking.  And I hate to break it to you but they all involve user error.  Therefore, before you toss your smokeless fire pit out for scrap, take a look to see if the following problems apply to you.

Problem #1 

Your wood is wet or not properly seasoned.  Steam and water vapor released while burning wet wood prevents a smokeless fire pit from reaching a high enough temperature to initiate the secondary burn that consumes smoke.  Burn only well seasoned, dry wood.

Problem #2

Ash build-up is blocking air flow.  Smokeless fire pits are not exactly maintenance free.  The area where the logs sit while they burn is specially designed to maximize air flow.  Accumulated ash eventually blocks the air flow and lowers the burning temperature.  Clean out ash from your smokeless pit regularly to avoid increased smoke output.

Problem #3

Improperly built fire.  There is always going to be more smoke during the first 30 minutes while your smokeless fire pit ramps up to operating temperature.  However, reaching that smoke free point quickly depends on a good bed of coals during start up.  Skip that step and you’ll have to suffer through way more smoke.  Always start your fire with small, dry material and work up in size as the fire grows.  Don’t jump the gun by tossing in big logs before that bed of coals is well nurtured.   

Are smokeless fire pits safer

All fire pits have some element of danger.  After all, you’re trying to contain fire.  

However, smokeless fire pits tends to be much safer than other types of wood burning fire pits.  Very little smoke pollutes the air and virtually zero flammable embers or ash escape the pit.

Smokeless fire pits are a much better option for health and fire safety, which makes them particularly enjoyable in densely populated urban areas.  Keep in mind that burn ban restrictions usually still apply to smokeless fire pits.  

Can you use a smokeless fire pit on a deck

Their compact size and portability make smokeless fire pits a great option for small urban backyards.  They are certainly self-contained but that doesn’t mean you can just put them anywhere.  

Since smokeless fire pits burn at high temperatures, the pit itself gets extremely hot.  For that reason, it is never a good idea to place a smokeless fire pit on a deck or any other combustible surface.  

In my experience, the bottom surface of smokeless fire pits reach temperatures up to 800°F.  Temperatures that high will instantly kill grass, char wood decking and even fracture the surface of a concrete patio.  

The best way to enjoy your fire pit without causing damage is to use concrete pavers.  A layer of gravel or rocks in the yard also works great.  

Some smokeless fire pits come with stands that provide extra clearance allowing for safer use on multiple surfaces.  You should still use caution.  Fire pit stands might help you avoid burning the surface on which you place it but there is often still enough heat to cause discoloring.  Especially, on a wood surface like a deck.

Best smokeless fire pits that truly work

There are plenty of smokeless fire pits to choose from.  However, a proven track record of exceptional quality and a truly smokeless function that lives up to your expectations is what really matters.  

You can find smokeless fire pits to match any budget but only a couple fire pits are of sufficient quality to warrant my attention.  Take a look at my two favorite brands of smokeless fire pits.  These are the ones that are a cut above the rest and truly work in any backyard.

Breeo X Series 19 Smokeless Fire Pit

• Outside Dimensions – 22.13” wide X 14.75” high
• Inside Dimensions – 18.5” wide X 11.38” high
• Weight – 54 pounds
• Material – Legs/Rim: Stainless Steel, Fire Ring: 304 Stainless Steel or Corten Steel
• Use – Backyard fire pit for gatherings or cooking
• Price – $349

The Breeo X Series 19 inch smokeless fire pit is more than just a centerpiece for everyone to sit around.  It is a full blown campfire experience that incorporates sophisticated style with the versatility to produce delicious fire cooked meals.  

Choose from 304 stainless steel or the more rustic look of weathered Corten steel.  Either way, you get a perfectly engineered design that optimizes air flow for a truly low smoke burn.  Its robust construction will last a lifetime of burning.  Plus, add on the optional SearPlate and the Outpost grilling system for the ultimate in backyard cooking.  

Solo Stove Bonfire Smokeless Fire Pit

• Dimensions – 19.5” wide X 14” high
• Weight – 20 pounds
• Material – 304 stainless steel
• Use – Portable fire pit for camping or backyard gatherings
• Price – $299

Solo Stove smokeless fire pits are the number one brand for a reason.  Its minimalist design allows for the ultimate in portability.  Weighing in at a compact 20 pounds, it’s ready for any backyard or outdoor adventure.  Not to mention, every fire pit is made from 304 stainless steel that handles any abuse while maintaining its rugged good looks.  

Of all the smokeless fire pits I’ve seen, the Solo Stove definitely earns its top spot for a truly smoke free burn.  A 360° air flow system leads to better efficiency and a more complete burn.  It’s a great fire pit for sitting around and enjoying the beautiful flames or roasting marshmallows with your family.  As an added bonus, get the optional stand for safe burning on any surface, including a wood deck.

DIY smokeless fire pit

Not everyone likes the idea of shelling out a few hundred dollars for a fancy smokeless fire pit.  Luckily, there are some great do-it-yourself smokeless pit designs that work nearly as well and at only a fraction of the cost.  

You’ll need some basic materials like landscaping stones, a steel ring insert, a few household tools and a little ingenuity.  Other than that, anyone can create a cleaner burning fire pit right in their backyard.  

Don’t take my word for it though.  Check out this video to see how easy it really is.  

Final thoughts

Now, more than ever, the ability to create a gathering place for close family and friends is a must.  One of the simplest ways to enjoy your home’s outdoor space is by adding a fire pit as a focal point.  But if the idea of smoke keeps you from wanting one, then give a smokeless fire pit a try.  They really do work!

The post Do Smokeless Fire Pits Work: Here’s What To Really Expect appeared first on Cut Stack Burn.

In other words, there is a lot more to a stack of firewood than meets the eye.  That’s why so many people devote so much time and care into stacking it in the right spot, on the right rack and in just the right way.  And make no mistake, hardcore firewood gathers all have their own opinions on how to stack firewood the right way.

Who knew there was even a wrong way to stack firewood?!  There are dozens of ways to stack firewood right but just as many ways to stack it wrong.   

Do you want your firewood stack to season faster, stand up sturdier and look better?  Luckily, you came to the right place.  This is, after all, the only firewood stacking guide you’ll ever need.  Check it out below.

How not to fail when stacking firewood

Stacking firewood hardly seems so complex as to warrant an entire guide on the finer points of putting one log on top of another.  However, I have had my share of failures when it comes to stacking firewood.  I guess that makes me qualified then to suggest a few tips to help you avoid making the same mistakes.  

But first, what does it even mean to fail at stacking firewood?  Well, has your wood stack ever toppled over?  Does your firewood take a long time to season?  Or is your wood stack an ugly eyesore in the yard?  If you answered yes to any of the above, it could be said that your firewood stacking skills need work.

For those of you who want to stack firewood better than the Joneses, listen up.  There are only a handful of foundational tips you really need to avoid the major pitfalls of stacking firewood.

Tip #1:

Start with similar sized pieces.  It’s impossible to get a sturdy stack of wood if every piece of wood is a different size.  You might not have control over that if you buy your wood but you certainly do if you cut and split your own.  Firewood that has the same length can be stacked in tidy rows that not only look better but season faster too.

Tip #2:

Start with a level platform.  Whether you are stacking on 2x4s, pallets or on a metal rack, starting with a level foundation is crucial.  The main reason wood piles topple over is because they are not level.  It is along the long axis of your firewood where levelness matters.  Get that wrong and by the time your stack passes several feet in height, things get off balance.

Tip #3:

Keep an eye on the line.  A nice looking pile of wood that is sturdy enough to support its own weight is a true accomplishment.  Leveling up your firewood stacking game takes some serious focus on keeping things straight while you stack.  From the first piece of wood you lay down to the last log on top, everything should be vertically lined up.  Get one layer of wood a half inch off at the bottom and your stack becomes unbalanced by the time you get to the top.

Tip #4:

Stack in single rows.  Drying out your wood fast is the goal.  With single rows of stacked wood, you’ll get the most air circulation possible around every piece.  Putting three or more rows of wood together always slows down the seasoning process for the middle sections.  If time is not an issue or if space is limited for you, then by all means stack away.

Tip #5:

Location, location, location.  I get it.  Dealing with firewood can be a pain.  You touch it once to cut it, once to split it and again to stack it.  So, it makes sense to just pile it right where you split it.  However, resit that urge and stack your wood in the best place you have in the yard.  Even if it means touching every piece one more time.  Ideal locations to stack wood limit exposure to weather, have good air circulation and plenty of sunlight.  That way your firewood seasons faster and stays drier all year.  And throw a tarp over the top while you’re at it if it’s not under cover.

Should firewood be stacked bark up or down

This age old dilemma has been debated for generations and remains a standing argument for many.  Although, the modern firewood stacker has some science to rely on for a clearer answer.  

According to several forestry experts, bark up or down has little effect on drying time for firewood stacked under a cover.  However, storing wood bark side up on uncovered wood piles helps protect the underlying wood from moisture while bark side down allows water to collect in the u-shaped curve between the wood and bark.  This slows down the drying process and encourages rot.

There are some who firmly believe that unseasoned firewood that’s stacked and covered should be stored bark side down to allow for moisture to evaporate from the wood.  It does seem reasonable since bark acts as a moisture barrier to rising water vapor if stacked bark side up.  

Is it better to stack or pile firewood

Let’s face it.  The only reason anyone asks if it’s okay to just leave their firewood in a pile is because they are short on time, out of energy or both.  Keep in mind that you already put in the work to cut it and split it.  It would be a shame to end up with a pile of low quality firewood that barely burns in the fireplace simply due to laziness.

Even if you didn’t do the hard work and bought a cord of wood, leaving it in a heap where it was dropped off all winter is a good way to waste your hard earned money.

It is always better to stack your firewood as opposed to leaving it in a pile on the ground.  Not only will firewood in a pile not season properly, it also is more likely to decay and become infested with insects while it sits on the ground.  Stacking firewood on a rack not only gets it off the ground, it also helps your wood dry faster.

Should stacked firewood be covered

When you think about it, most of us use firewood to heat our homes in the fall and winter when the weather turns cold and wet.  Even if you don’t need it for heat and just like the occasional fire for a cozy atmosphere, you can appreciate the importance of dry wood.  

In mild, wet climates you should always keep your firewood covered to protect it from rain or snow.  The best practice is to cover wood immediately after stacking it.  Dry firewood burns hotter, more efficiently and with less smoke than damp wood.  Once your wood gets wet, it will take quite awhile to dry out again even if covered.  

Is it okay to stack firewood on the ground

It is never okay to stack firewood directly on the ground for several reasons.  First, constant moisture from the soil prevents drying.  This in turn leads to decay and infestations from termites, ants and other insects.  

It doesn’t take much to get your firewood off the ground either.  Something as simple as two strips of 2×2 boards on the ground is enough of a barrier between the wood and the ground to keep it in good shape.  Paving stones, wood pallets or firewood racks are all great ways to keep wood elevated and dry.

Remember to avoid stacking wood on any surface that allows moisture to pool underneath it, like a tarp.  The tarp might keep your wood off the ground but it collects water every time it rains.

How high can you stack firewood

Everyone’s situation is a little different.  If you’re like me and space is limited, then stacking higher is your only option.  Others may have enough open space to spread out their wood stacks.  In either case, the question remains.  How high should you stack firewood?  

Safety is ultimately the most important consideration when deciding how high to stack firewood.  Even if you stack your wood with the utmost of care, there is always a chance it can tip over.  This is especially dangerous for kids playing around a wood pile.  It’s also a danger to you as you remove wood from the stack.

For safety reasons, a self-supported firewood stack should never exceed 4 feet high.  Split logs contained in a woodshed can be stacked higher as long as there are supports along the sides that restrain every row of wood.  

At some point, it comes down to common sense.  Use your best judgement to determine what seems safe to you.  If you have the space, it is always better to have several smaller stacks.  Not only for safety but for more efficient seasoning. 

Can I stack firewood against my house

It sure would be convenient to keep a stack of firewood within easy reach of your back door.  Not to mention you could use your house eves to keep firewood dry, right?

As tempting as it sounds, never store firewood against your house.  Firewood stacks are a magnet for rodents and insects.  You would be giving them easy access to your home.  Plus, keeping wood against your house limits air flow between your siding and the wood.  As a result, your siding becomes vulnerable to damage from insects, mold and mildew.  

It is a good idea to always keep at least 20 feet of distance between your home and any firewood.  If you’re stacking wood against any other structure, like a garden shed, give at least 6 inches of space to allow for adequate ventilation around the wood.

5 best firewood racks for any situation

A quality firewood rack can be worth its weight in gold.  Not only does a rack keep your wood tidy, it also keeps your beautifully season firewood off the ground and out of the elements.  

However, I can tell you from personal experience that not all firewood racks are created equal.  Sorting through all the duds to find the best racks that can handle any stack of wood is a daunting task.  Finding one that suits your needs and budget at the same time is even harder.  

That’s why I put together the 5 best firewood racks to match anyone’s situation.  These are not just the cheap racks either.  These are the firewood racks actually worth buying.

Best heavy duty firewood rack – Woodhaven Outdoor Rack

Woodhaven’s firewood racks are the last you’ll ever need to buy.  No other wood rack even comes close to matching it’s durability and ruggedness.  With its heavy gauge steel construction and weather proof powder coating, you can bet it will handle the elements.  Plus, all Woodhaven wood racks are easy to assemble using the high quality nuts and bolts included. 

Rack sizes range from 4 feet to 16 feet in length but I find the 8 foot rack perfect for a decent stash of wood in a small space.  You can pile wood up to 4 feet high on these racks and they still feel rock solid giving you piece of mind that your stack won’t tip over.  The 8 foot long Woodhaven rack holds approximately 1/3 cord of wood when full.  Need to stack more?  The 16 foot rack holds nearly 2/3 of a cord.  

Each Woodhaven rack also comes with a waterproof top cover that shields the upper logs from moisture while allowing for proper seasoning of wood further down the stack.  As you work your way through the wood, the cover lowers to ensure you always have completely dry wood ready to burn.

Best budget friendly firewood rack – Amagabeli Outdoor Rack

You don’t always need the most heavy duty firewood rack to get the job done.  Sometimes all you need is a budget friendly solution to your wood storage needs.  That’s where the Amagabeli Outdoor Wood Rack comes in.  At less than $60, you can have your wood off the ground and ready to season on a sturdy platform that will resist whatever Mother Nature throws its way.  

Both the 4 foot and 8 foot version are made of tubular steel that bolts together fast and easy.  While the design might appear flimsy, it is up to the task of holding the weight.  

Best customizable firewood rack – Mofeez Wood Rack Bracket Kit

One of my favorite wood racks on this list is the Mofeez Bracket Kit.  This is the ultimate in wood rack customization.  The length of your wood rack is entirely in your control.  Mofeez brackets are made of thick, rigid steel and require 2×4 lumber to put together.  You get 2 brackets and all the screws to assemble it.  I recommend you swap out the included screws for better quality wood screws though.  

There are several other bracket kits available but none are made with the same quality.  A durable coating resists rust better than the competition and the youthful addition of drain holes in the vertical post slots extends the life of your firewood rack.  When you want the ability to make any length wood rack, don’t pass this one up.

Best covered firewood rack – Amagabeli Wood Rack with Cover

Dry firewood is the goal and the Amagabeli Wood Rack with Cover is how you ensure dry wood is always handy.  This stout rack is the same great rack I recommend as my budget pick with the added bonus of a 100% waterproof cover.  It’s a great way to store your already seasoned firewood fully protected from rain, sleet or snow.  

You can be confident that the cover won’t blow away in the wind since it securely fastens around the wood.  The built in vents combined with open space at the bottom allows for sufficient air flow to keep your firewood from collecting moisture.  

Best indoor firewood rack – Eclume Hammered Steel Rack

You don’t need an outdoor firewood rack to be a work of art.  It simply needs to be durable enough to store heavy stacks of wood.  But once you stack a bundle of wood next to your fireplace, function and beauty become a priority.  No other indoor wood rack comes close to matching the craftsmanship of Eclume wood racks.  

These racks are made to impress with simple elegance and straightforward functionality.  Go ahead and waste your money on lesser racks that wobble on uneven legs.  However, I suggest you buy an Eclume Hammered Steel Rack instead.  Every rack is handmade by blacksmiths in the USA and are crafted to look good and last a lifetime.

DIY firewood racks

There are countless creative ways to build firewood racks from spare materials you have laying around.  Among the easiest to build are pallet racks.  Use reclaimed pallets to create any sized rack, with or without sides.  You can even use pallets to build a full blown wood shed. 

Another easy DIY firewood rack uses nothing but 4-6 cinder blocks and some scrap 2x4s.  Simply place the blocks at equal spacings in a line parallel to each other.  Span a couple 2x4s across the blocks as the bottom support and then place two vertical 2x4s in the open holes of the cinder blocks at each end.  

Take a look at this blog post by TheGardenGlove.com where they show you how to make this DIY wood rack and several more awesome wood storage projects.

How to stack firewood without racks

It is possible to stack firewood without the benefit of a rack.  This is great news for anyone not willing to shell out their money on expensive racks or wanting to take the time to build a DIY rack.  Stacking firewood without a rack requires the wood to be self-supporting.  With some technique, anyone can accomplish this.

All you really need is a few wood boards, like 2x4s or 2x2s, and a little patience.  Remember, the goal to to make a stack that won’t collapse at the ends or fall over sideways.  You also need to keep your wood off the ground.  

To start, find a level spot and lay down the boards parallel to each other and about a foot apart.  Ideally, your stack should be 6 to 8 feet long.  The very ends of your wood stack will be supported with a pillar of crisscrossed logs.  Use uniform logs to stack four pieces one direction followed by four more pieces on top, turned 90 degrees.  Alternate in this way until you have a criss crossed pillar 3-4 feet tall at each end.  Now you can stack wood lengthwise across the boards between the end pillars.  

The pillars provide sturdy book ends to keep your wood pile from collapsing.  Follow my earlier tips on how not to fail at stacking wood to make sure you get the best stacked wood possible.  

The benefits of firewood sheds

For those of you with space to spare, a woodshed might be the ideal way to stack and season your wood.  A well built shed does two things.  It keeps rain and snow off your wood and maximizes air flow throughout the stack.  All other means of stacking wood, whether it be pre-made racks, DIY racks or no rack, all fail at some point to protect your wood in extreme conditions.  

Wood sheds, on the other hand, keep your wood perfectly dry all the time.  Here are just a few of the benefits of having a wood shed.

• Fully roofed to eliminate moisture on the wood
• Excellent air circulation on all sides (Assuming it’s designed right)
• Great way to store one or many cords of wood for long term use
• Keeps wood clean and free of insects
• Looks nicer than most other ways of stacking wood.  No ugly tarps!
• Relatively inexpensive to build
• Completely customizable for any space
• Lasts a long time  

Maybe you have a hard time getting your wood to season properly or you simply want to tidy up the yard.  If you have the option, a wood shed is a worthwhile project.

More things to know

I’m sure you are not interested in reading an entire novel about firewood but incase you just can’t get enough, there is plenty more to learn.  Don’t pass up your chance to become a firewood expert.  Check out some of my other popular posts that answer your most pressing firewood questions.

•  Can you store firewood indoors

•  How to tell if firewood is dry

The post The Only Firewood Stacking Guide You’ll Ever Need appeared first on Cut Stack Burn.

However, deciding when your wood is actually dry can be tricky.  Ideally, firewood should have a moisture content of 10-20%.  Burn it too early and you’ll end up with a smokey fire that puts out a fraction of the heat it should.  That is a major problem.  Not only will you need to burn more wood to get the same amount of heat, you are also ramping up the amount of creosote that collects in your chimney.  

As important as burning dry wood is, not everyone knows how to ensure that their collection of firewood is thoroughly seasoned.  For those who want the quick answer, here it is.

Visually, seasoned firewood will have a dull, faded color, obvious cracking on the cut ends and bark that is easily separated from the wood.  In addition,  dry wood will feel lighter and make a sharp, hollow sound when two pieces are banged together.  However, a moisture meter is the most accurate way to tell if your firewood is completely dry.

But it takes more than this short answer to confidently tell when firewood is ready to burn.  Keep reading and I’ll make sure you find out everything you need to know.

How long does it take to season firewood

Whether you buy firewood or cut and stack your own, you want to get the most from every piece.  Otherwise, all the backbreaking work you put into managing your stash of firewood is for nothing.  

To get the most amount of heat with the most efficient burn possible, you need properly seasoned firewood.  It is an established standard that well seasoned wood should have a moisture content below 20% before you burn it.  Anything higher than that decreases the efficiency of your fire. 

Since green or wet firewood usually has a moisture content ranging from 60% to over 100%, it’s going to take some time for it to dry out.  How long you may ask?  

As a general rule of thumb, it takes 12 to 18 months for hardwoods like oak and maple to dry out enough for clean burning.  Softwoods, such as pine, may only require 6 to 8 months of seasoning time before reaching a moisture level below 20%. 

Of course, that is the simple answer.  The time required for your wood to dry depends on the kind of wood, the condition of the tree, how you stack it and the time of year.  By far, the type of wood you are trying to dry has the biggest influence on how long it will take to fully season.  

Use the chart below as a guide to determine when your wood is properly seasoned and ready for the fireplace. 

Is it bad to burn wet firewood

There is a very good reason to learn how to tell if your firewood is properly seasoned.  It’s because burning wet wood is a bad idea.  Especially, in an indoor fireplace.

Compared to well seasoned wood, wet wood generates significantly less heat when burned.  Wet wood also generates more smoke and steam vapor that will condense in your chimney forming a dangerous creosote layer.  Ultimately, burning wet wood is a bad way to warm your house and increases the likelihood of a chimney fire.

While wet wood is certainly bad to use for indoor fireplaces, it is possible to burn damp wood in an outdoor fire pit.  I still don’t recommend it since you’ll end up with a lot of smoke.  

5 easy ways to tell if your firewood is properly seasoned

Deal with enough firewood in your life and eventually you’ll gain a sixth sense about it.  Everything from the species of wood to the amount of seasoning still required will be revealed to you with a quick glance. 

Unfortunately, not all are as keenly aware about the state of their firewood.  For those of us who do not have the time or inclination to become a wood whisperer, we need a more definitive guide on how to tell when our firewood is done seasoning.

Luckily, there are a few easy ways to tell when your wood is ready for the fireplace. 

1. Bark is falling off

The outer bark on a fresh cut tree stays tightly bound to the cellular structure of the wood beneath for many months.  Once your firewood drys out and the cells contract, the bonds holding the bark to the wood start failing.  At this point, the bark falls off naturally or is easily peeled away.

Keep in mind that this is only one indication.  After all, bark also falls off a fallen tree that is left lying on the ground.  That doesn’t mean the wood is dry.  Just that the cells in the wood are dead, causing the bark to detach.  Therefore, the bark test is most useful if you know that the tree was cut, split and stacked in a dry place immediately after felling.    

2. Color has faded or changed

Among the more subtle ways to test if wood is fully seasoned is by checking the color.  This, of course, is easier for those who gather their own firewood than those who buy pre-cut firewood.  Mainly because you will know what color the wood was when it was green and wet for comparison.

Either way, many species of wood undergo a color change by the end of the drying period.  Some types of firewood have more dramatic color changes than others.  Red oak, for example, develops a rich reddish brown color when dry.  When red oak is still wet, it’s color is somewhat pale.  Seasoned maple and pine, on the other hand, fade in color compared to green wood.  

Once you get familiar with the color variations of the wood you commonly burn, you’ll eventually pick up on what to look for.  By itself, color is not the best indicator of dry wood.  Cut firewood left out in the rain also fades in color too but it obviously won’t be dry.  Again, color change is just another tool in your arsenal.

3. Cracking is apparent on the cut ends

An easy way to quickly gauge whether or not your wood needs more time to dry is by checking for visible cracking on the ends.  Take a look at the cut ends of your firewood.  Well seasoned wood will show a checkered pattern of cracks where the wood grain has started to separate.  

This cracking only happens as cells in the wood dehydrate and contract, thereby pulling apart from one another.  Both green wood and rain soaked firewood do not show cracking.  Moisture in the wood causes swelling that closes these cracks.  

4. Light weight compared to green wood

Weight is a pretty fool proof technique to decide if wood is dry.  When all the other indicators signal that your wood is properly seasoned, weight is a good final test to confirm.  

Moisture accounts for a large portion of the weight of most types of wood, usually 60-80%.  Dry firewood should have a moisture content of 10-20% which means there will be a significant weight difference between similar sized wet and dry pieces.  It helps to have some green wood handy when testing your pile of seasoned wood but after awhile you learn to tell without comparing.  Try using a kitchen scale to get a better idea of the weight difference too.

5. Moisture meter

Without a doubt, a moisture meter is the best way to check if your firewood is dry and ready to use.  I like the other tests listed above to get me in the ball park but I use the moisture meter to confidently say when my firewood is truly dry.  

As I said before, wood with 10-20% moisture content burns the most efficiently and with the least amount of smoke.  The only way to measure the dampness of your wood accurately is with a moisture meter.  They are relatively inexpensive and easy to use too.  Once you have one in hand, just press the measuring pins into the wood to get the moisture reading.  

General Tools Digital Moisture Meter found on Amazon works perfectly for testing firewood.  I find it to be super accurate and reliable.  It’s also pretty cheap for the functionality you get from it.  Any serious owner of firewood should have one, so check it out.

Pro Tip:  Before testing firewood with a moisture meter, split a piece to expose a fresh internal portion of the log.  This will be the area with the highest moisture.  This is also a good idea for those of you who buy firewood.  Split a log and test it for dryness before accepting delivery.

What is the fastest way to dry firewood

It could be that you just don’t have the time to wait for your firewood to season naturally.  Maybe you cut and stacked your wood a little late this year.  Or maybe you got a couple cords of maple delivered that were greener than promised.  In either case, you have the same dilemma.  Cold weather is coming and your wood isn’t quite below the 20% moisture mark.

Luckily, there are some things you can do to speed along the process.  Plus, I will throw in a few tips to help you prepare for next year so you’ll have plenty of seasoned wood to keep you warm.

Can you dry firewood with a fan or dehumidifier

To get firewood to dry really fast you need three things: heat, low humidity and plenty of air flow.  So, it’s no wonder lots of people think a fan blowing on their firewood will speed along the process.  And they aren’t necessarily wrong.

During the summer, high heat and low humidity in most of the country means your properly stacked firewood will dry in a hurry.  Air flow is less of a factor.  However, once fall arrives, fresh cut wood is not going to dry very fast.  Lower temperatures and slightly higher humidity slows the process down.  If you increase the air flow with a fan it may give you a little bit more drying power.  Add in a dehumidifier to get an even bigger boost.

Obviously, there is a limit to how well a fan really works for drying firewood.  Some would even argue that the effects of a fan is so minuscule as to hardly be worth the trouble.  But I know enough people who have tried it to realize that the idea has some merit.  

For a small stack of wood stored in a covered wood shed, a fan will work to speed up the drying process.  Generally, the relative humidity should be 80% or lower for it to have any effect.  Your firewood should be loosely stacked for optimal air flow and placing the fan so it blows on the ends works best.

Will firewood dry in a pile

Cutting, splitting and stacking firewood isn’t easy and you aren’t the first person to leave your wood piled right where you split it.  Why not throw a tarp over it and call it good.  It will dry right?

Here’s the thing, firewood left in a pile on the ground will take much longer to dry than nicely stacked wood.  Even if you throw a tarp over it.  There just isn’t enough air flow throughout the entire pile to efficiently season the wood.  Instead of waiting 6-8 months for it to fully dry when stacked and covered, it may take 12-18 months, if at all.

Not to mention, a pile of wood on the ground means there is always some wood in contact with the ground.  That is a recipe for trouble.  Not only does the wood stay moist, it also becomes a haven for insects and fungus that will ruin a good pile of firewood.  Make sure to check out my article discussing all the best ways to prevent pests in your woodpile.

Do yourself a favor, and don’t let all that hard work of cutting and splitting go to waste.  Take the time to stack your wood in a dry location, elevate it off the ground and top it with a cover.  It will dry much faster than it would in a pile.

Does split wood dry faster

To get the fastest drying time possible for your firewood, split it into smaller logs.  Full rounds cut from the tree will hold moisture for a long time.  You need to expose as much surface area of the wood as possible to speed up the seasoning process.    

Should I cover my firewood 

You need to keep your firewood out of the elements in order to get the fastest drying time possible.  Wood that constantly gets rained on is never going to be dry enough to burn when you need it.

All of your firewood needs to be covered with a waterproof cover.  Keep in mind that you only need to cover the top and partway down the sides of your firewood stack.  Just enough to keep rain from soaking all the wood.  Do not completely cover wood that is still green or you will trap in moisture, which actually extends the drying time.  There always needs to be sufficient air flow through your firewood stack to ensure every piece seasons all the way.

Best time of year to cut and dry firewood

The best way to make sure you have well seasoned firewood for the winter is to give yourself plenty of time to let it dry in the first place.  

While anytime is a good time to cut firewood, the absolute best time is winter through early spring.  This gives your wood a chance to season during several months of summer heat.  Sunshine and wind are the best way to expedite the drying process of firewood.  By late, fall most types of wood are adequately dry for efficient burning.

Parting words

Don’t under estimate the importance of burning dry wood.  You’ll get a warmer, more efficient fire while producing less smoke and creosote build up.  Hopefully, you are now armed with the knowledge and tools you need to be an expert at differentiating properly seasoned wood from wood that needs a couple more months to dry.  

In the end, my biggest piece of advice is to get a moisture meter.  It will save you a lot of time and trouble when wood dryness is questionable.

The post How To Tell If Your Firewood Is Dry: A Definitive Guide appeared first on Cut Stack Burn.

However, while electric chainsaws are quieter and cleaner to operate, they are far from being maintenance free.  Much like their gas powered cousins, they still have moving parts that need lubrication and attention.  

But do electric chainsaws actually need bar oil to work?  Yes.  Electric chainsaws require bar oil to operate.  Bar oil provides essential lubrication to the chain and bar as it cuts.  Without bar oil, excess heat and friction can cause binding on the chain and will eventually damage the motor. 

A well oiled saw will help you cut wood for years.  So keep reading and I’ll share everything you need to know about using bar oil in an electric chainsaw.  We’ll also take a look at what you can do in a pinch if you run out of bar oil.

What happens if you run a chainsaw without bar oil

Running a chainsaw without bar oil is a lot like driving a car with the emergency brake on.  Nothing good will come of this, I promise!  A chain without lubrication heats up from severe friction and has the potential to cause several problems.  All of which are dangerous to the user and the saw.

Without bar oil, gas and electric chainsaws develop the following problems:

• Faster dulling of the chain (excess heat softens the metal teeth)
• Sudden chain linkage failure
• Increased bar wear
• Potential heat soak that leads to engine damage
• Excessive engine load and wear

It’s also important to mention that this damage can happen fast.  Sometimes within just a few minutes of use.  Even if something doesn’t fail the first time, repeated abuse from running without bar oil will exacerbate the problem and lead to catastrophic failure eventually.

While broken chains, dull teeth and bar wear are obvious issues resulting from under lubrication, engine wear and heat soak are a bit more insidious.  The damage done won’t be apparent until it’s too late.  

Engine wear in an electric chainsaw means the sprocket that drives the chain encounters too much resistance and the motor over works to compensate.  In general, engine wear shortens the life of the saw.

Although heat soak is something that afflicts gas motors more, electric saws suffer a similar fate.  As the motor works to overcome rotational resistance on a dry chain, excess heat builds up and leads to motor failure or melted parts.  Usually the only fix is replacing the entire saw.

Can you use motor oil as bar oil 

At this point you likely understand that running your saw without bar oil isn’t an option.  But what do you do if you’re out of bar oil?  The cutting job still needs to get done, right? 

Luckily, motor oil is an effective lubricant too.  After all, it keeps your vehicle engine functioning smooth.  

In a pinch, using new motor oil is a viable alternative to bar oil.  As a rule of thumb, use SAE 30 weight in summer and SAE 10 weight for winter cutting. 

Just keep in mind that motor oil is not as “tacky” as bar oil so more will sling off as the chain rotates at high rates.  You’ll need to keep a close eye on the reservoir level and top it off regularly.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that you should never substitute used motor oil for bar oil.  Used motor oil contains abrasive bits of metal and grit that can wreak havoc on a bar and chain.  Only use new motor oil.

Okay, so you don’t have bar oil or motor oil sitting around.  Not a problem.  Head to the pantry and grab some vegetable oil instead.  Vegetable or canola oil can handle high heat and is reasonably viscous enough to use as a bar oil alternative.

I don’t recommend using vegetable oil all the time in your electric saw but for a quick job it does the trick.

How do you oil an electric chainsaw

Adding bar and chain oil to an electric chain saw is a cinch.  With only a few minutes of time and 4 simple steps, you can greatly increase the life and function of the saw.

To add bar oil to electric chainsaws, here’s what you need to do:

Step 1:  

Unplug your electric chainsaw from the power source and place it on a level work surface.  Use a drip pan or towel under the saw so any oil spills are easy to clean up.  Make sure the saw has had a chance to cool a little before filling with oil.  

Step 2:

Cutting wood dumps a lot of dust and debris around the oil fill cap which sits on top of the saw.  Wipe away debris with a clean shop rag before removing the cap to prevent material from falling into the oil reservoir.  Little wood bits can easily plug the small oil ports that keep your chain lubricated.  Once the area around the cap is clean, remove the cap.

Step 3:  

Place a small funnel in the fill neck and carefully add the bar and chain oil.  Look for a fill line on the reservoir and fill to that mark.  Try not to over fill the reservoir.  

Step 4:

Let the funnel sit for 30 seconds to allow excess oil to drip off.  Remove the funnel and replace the reservoir cap.  Wipe up any oil drips and you’re all set.

If by chance you over fill the reservoir on the saw, simply pour a little back into your oil jug or discard it.

How often do you add bar oil 

At some point you’ll need to add more bar oil to an electric or gas chainsaw.  It’s hard to say how long a full reservoir will last though.  Factors like the reservoir size, the type and brand of oil and the speed at which you cut all play a part in bar oil consumption rates.  

On a gas powered chainsaw, bar oil is fed at a specific rate where a full reservoir of oil (or less) lasts for one tank of fuel mix.  So each time you add gas, check the bar oil as well.

On an electric chain saw, the oil consumption rate varies by brand.  The key is to keep an eye on the oil level every so often.  I usually check every 30 minutes or so if I’m cutting continuously.  If you are unsure, just add a some oil.  Don’t let it run dry

Luckily, most electric saws have transparent reservoirs that clearly show the oil level so checking is easy and fast.

A bigger problem to watch for is oil levels that don’t decrease with use.  If it seems like you cut a lot of wood without using any, there’s a problem with the oil feed mechanism.

Most commonly the oil feed port has a blockage.  This will require the bar to be removed.  You can then access the oil port which is located at the rear of the bar.  Look for debris that is clogging the port.

Continual oil feed problems should be looked at by a professional at your local saw shop or garden center.  For DIY savvy individuals, check the pump or lube hose for blockages.  Use compressed air to blow out stubborn clogs.

Best bar oil for electric chainsaws

Electric chainsaw manufacturers usually recommend the use of specific brands or types of bar and chain oil.  They may even produce bar and chain oil designed for their own saws.  Either way, be sure to look in the owner’s manual for specifications.  Sometimes using other brands of oil can void the warranty so read the fine print.

When the manufacturer recommended oil is not available, think about the following when selecting a good bar oil:

• Find a heat tolerant oil that maintains viscosity during all-season use.  Oils that thin out on hot days won’t last long or lubricate well.  Conversely, oil that get gummy on cold winter days won’t pump fast enough to provide adequate lubrication.  

• Make sure to use oil that is designed to reduce “throw-off”.  These tacky oils have what it takes to cling to the fast moving chain without slinging off. 

• For environmental conscious saw owners or when pruning sensitive ornamentals or fruit trees, consider using a vegetable-based oil.  This is not the same as straight cooking oil like I mentioned before.  These are designed for use in chainsaws and work quite well. 

You can buy bar oil at most hardware stores or garden centers that sell chainsaws.  Online options are also available and you can get premium and specialty types from Amazon in most cases.

To help simplify your choices, here are the cream of the crop bar oils that I recommend.

Best for general purpose:  Oregon 54-026 Bar and Chain Oil

It’s hard to beat the quality of Oregon’s premium bar and chain oil.  This all season oil is a consistent performer at any temperature and it’s reasonably priced and the most popular pick for pro’s and homeowners alike.

Best for extreme cold:  Stihl Winter Grade Bar and Chain Oil

For those of you who depend on wood heat in frigid winter temperatures, get a bar oil that won’t gum up on you.  The Stihl Winter Grade oil is designed to flow better at low temps than conventional bar oil.  If you’re a serious wood cutter, keep a jug on hand during deep freezes.

Best for the environment:  Renewable Lubricants Bio-Pro Bar/Chair Oil

This non-toxic oil is great for when a little extra care is needed to keep pets, kids and trees safe from harmful pollutants.  Designed with the same tackiness and anti-wear additives as other types of oil, it will certainly stand up to the most abusive situations.  

Best on a Budget:  Husqvarna Premium Bar and Chain Oil

When the dollar matters, you can’t go wrong with Husqvarna’s Premium oils.  Great for all season use and blended with high tack and anti-wear in mind.  For most average electric or gas chainsaw uses around the house, you won’t find a better budget friendly oil.

Final thoughts

Electric chainsaws are awesome tools that can be used by novice and pro wood cutters alike.  You’ll get the most from your tools with proper care and maintenance so always keep the oil reservoir full and your saw will keep cutting season after season.

The post Do Electric Chainsaws Need Bar Oil appeared first on Cut Stack Burn.